Natural Oils for Sunscreen

Carrier Oils and SPF

Carrier Oil /SPF
Red Raspberry Seed/28 - 50
Carrot Seed Oil/38 - 40
Wheatgerm/20
Soybean/10
Macadamia Nut/6
Jojoba/4
Sesame Seed Oil/2 - 4
Shea Butter/3 - 6
Coconut/2 - 8
Olive/2 - 8
Avocado (unrefined)/4 - 15
Castor Oil /6
Almond Oil/5

The Best Natural Oils for Sunscreen

Red Raspberry Seed Oil – SPF 28 – 50
This one is one of the most popular oils for SPF and can have a range of 28 – 50 (depending on the oil’s quality). Red raspberry oil is actually close to equivalent of the protection you would receive from Titanium Dioxide, found in most mineral sunscreens. The essential fatty acids and host of antioxidants in this oil are also great for other skin healing purposes including eczema and psoriasis. Red Raspberry Seed Oil protects against UVA & UVB rays.

Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil

Carrot Seed Oil – SPF 38 – 40
Carrot oil, which doubles as an antispetic is said to contain a high SPF factor when diluted with a carrier oil. According to a study published in “Pharmacognosy Magazine” in 2009, products containing carrot seed oil have a natural SPF of between 38 and 40. 

Wheatgerm Oil – SPF 20
Wheatgerm is packed with vitamins and minerals – namely Vitamin E, K & B – so it also acts as free radical preventer while it protects you from the sun. 

Other Oils with SPF 10 or Less

There are a host of other oils with lesser SPF factors, but may be adequate for some more bronzed babes.

Macadamia Oil – SPF 6
Non-GMO Soybean Oil – SPF 10
Avocado Oil – 4 – 10 (can get as high as 15)
Olive Oil  - 2-8
Shea Butter – 3 – 6
Almond Oil – SPF 5
Sesame Seed Oil – SPF 4
Hemp Seed Oil – SPF 6
Jojoba Oil – SPF 4
Coconut Oil – SPF 2 – 8 

Use Caution When Using Natural Oils for Sunscreen

Since not all oils are created equal, the SPF can vary when it is on your skin. Determining the exact SPF factor of an oil is difficult, espeically given that natural oils oxidize (lose some of their medicinal properties) over time and when exposed to light. Ensure that you are purchasing your oils from a recommended source and always do your research.

Another note about UVA & UVB rays: Aside from Red Raspberry Seed Oil,most plant oils protect only against UVB rays. Use caution or mix with a non-nano sized zinc oxide formula (non-nano meaning it doesn’t absorb into your skin).

Natural Oils as Sun Protection

Wheatgerm Oil – Wheatgerm is one of the best sources of natural vitamin E and is also a good source of vitamin K, B vitamins and choline. When applied to the skin, wheatgerm oil helps to moisturize tissues and acts as an antioxidant to prevent free radical damage. Wheatgerm oil has a natural SPF rating of 20. 

Rice Bran Oil - Rice bran oil contains gamma oryzanol, a naturally occurring plant byproduct. The chemicals in gamma oryzanol suppress the rising melanin levels thereby blocking the transmittance of ultraviolet rays through the surface of the skin. This process whitens the skin a slight amount and has historically been used in Japanese culture to produce a glowing complexion. It has an SPF of 2-4. 

Another tip for getting the most protection while out in the sun… DO NOT BATHE before going outside of an extended period of time. What we are doing to our skin by washing off natural oils is causing it to be more susceptible to the sun’s rays. We are leaving our largest organ with no protective barrier. Human sebum has a natural SPF of 6-8. Why would you want to wash that off? In addition, try not to bathe immediately after coming in from a day in the sun. Your body needs time to finish processing the Vitamin D and UVA/UVB rays. Try to wait at least an hour before showering.

Natural sunscreen

Natural Sunscreen Using Essential Oils

Another amazing essential oil that has ancient historical backing to it’s efficiency in preventing sunburn is Myrrh oil.  Ancient Egyptians used this oil exclusivley to prevent sunburn.  The essential oil myrrh comes from a thorny shrub in Somalia and Arabia and has been used since the time of Hippocrates—the father of Western medicine. It is widely known for its healing ability. Myrrh can be used to treat the dry, scaly skin associated with excessive sun exposure, according to “The Guide to Remedies: Homeopathy, Essential Oils, Crystals and Home Remedies.”

LAVENDER VS MYRRH FOR SUNSCREEN PROTECTION

Helichrysum oil has also been extensively researched and found to be a very effective natural sunscreen.  The added benefit of using both Myrrh and Helichrysum essential oils, as well as the other natural sources listed above is that they can also help to repair sun damage to skin cells after excessive sun exposure, so not only are these great sunscreens but they are great after sun lotions as well.

is the sunscreen lotion recipe more waterproof since it has beeswax in it? - Yes

Potassium Sorbate

Potassium Sorbate

Potassium sorbate is the salt of sorbic acid (natural fatty acid). In water potassium sorbate releases sorbic acid which is the active agent.
Appearance: White, fine granules, Slight sweet odor. Easily soluble in cold water.
It is a very effective preservative active against molds, yeast and aerophile bacteria in a wide pH range of 2-6.5 and for extended periods of time.
Typical concentration 0.15-0.3% (if used alone) or 0.1-0.2% (if used in combination with other preservatives).
It is  used to preserve all kinds of cosmetic products like creams, lotions, shampoos, makeup & sunscreen products. Potassium Sorbate is a mild preservative. Its primary use is as a food preservative.
Potassium sorbate is used to inhibit molds, and yeasts in many foods, such as cheese, wine, yogurt, dried meats, and baked goods. It can also be found in the ingredients list of many dried fruit products. In addition, herbal dietary supplement products generally contain potassium sorbate, which acts to prevent mold and microbes and to increase shelf life, and is used in such tiny quantities that there are no known adverse health effects.
It is used in many personal care products to inhibit the development of microorganisms for shelf stability. Some manufacturers are using this preservative as a replacement for parabens.
Potassium sorbate is the potassium salt of sorbic acid. It is made by reacting sorbic acid with potassium hydroxide.
It is effective up to pH 6.5 but effectiveness increases as the pH decreases. The lower the pH value of the product the lower amount of Sorbic Acid or Potassium Sorbate is needed for preservation.
Potassium Sorbate is considered a gentle preservative that is safe and mild because of its long term safety record and non-toxic profile. Potassium sorbate is non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Allergic reactions are rare.
Potassium Sorbate is water soluble and can be used effectively in both lotions and water-based liquid soap and shampoo formulations. Although the minimum inhibatory concentration for many fungi and bacteria is approx. 100 ppm, common usage levels range from 0.5 - 1.0%.
Dissolve K sorbate in your water phase at the beginning, to ensure proper dispersion of the product.

Bergamot

Bergamot Tea Safety

Side Effects
Drugs.com reports that Early Grey tea can cause a loss in potassium, muscle cramps, blurred vision, twitching, fasciculations and paresthesias. This is related to a component of bergamot oil called bergapten.

TOO MUCH EARL GREY CAUSES PROBLEMS

Bergamot oil contains bergapten (5-methoxypsoralen), bergamottin (5-geranyloxypsoralen), and citropten (5,7-dimethoxycoumarin). It is a well known UVA-induced photosensitiser (making the skin abnormally sensitive to sunlight), has a toxic effect on the liver and can also cause contact allergy. The side effects observed in this case can be explained by bergapten, which has effects on electrical conduction in membranes of peripheral nerves (it is a largely selective axolemmal potassium channel blocker and reduces potassium permeability at the nodes of Ranvier). The resulting hyperexcitability of the nerve axon membrane and timing alterations of nerve potassium currents can cause the twitching and muscle cramps.

Biguanide 20

Biguanide 20  

CAS No. 27083-27-8
Biguanide 20, also known as Polyaminopropyl Biguanide (PABG), is a broad spectrum, fast acting bactericide. It is provided by the manufacturer as a 20% solution in water.  A 20% aqueous solution of poly(hexamethylenebiguanide) hydrochloride, also known as PHMB, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, used at an appropriate usage level (of 0.2 - 1.5%) is an effective preservative for make-up removers, moisturizing toners, facial cleansers, wet wipes and also offers antibacterial and deodorant properties. Originally formulated for the contact lens industry, it is also typically used in baby wipes. It is gentle in-use, with low eye and skin irritancy and low oral toxicity.
Biguanide 20 is an effective non-formaldehyde, non-paraben preservative with no VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) which is heat and UV stable. It is effective over a broad pH range (4-10), but most effective at a pH of 6.0 or less. As it is cationic, it is compatible with cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. It is incompatible with strongly anionic systems.
Biguanide 20 is incompatible with natural liquid soaps and beeswax/borax emulsions. It is more compatible with cationic emulsifiers like Lotioncrafter BTMS. Polyaminopropyl Biguanide is not compatible with Xanthan Gum.
Biguanide 20 is heat stable to at least 80°C (176°F) and can be added pre or post emulsification. For complex formulations, consider combining with another preservative for a broader spectrum of activity or potassium sorbate for increased antifungal/mold protection.**
Recommended usage level: 0.2 - 1.5%.
Appearance: Clear to slightly pale yellow, slightly opalescent liquid.
pH: 5.0 - 5.5
Specific Gravity: 1.04
Solubility: Soluble in water. Miscible with ethanol, glycerin, and propylene glycol.

INCI: Polyaminopropyl Biguanide

Polyaminopropyl Biguanide

Although a synthetic ingredient, it is not a terribly dangerous one.  It is not known to be mutagenic on mamilian cells, not an endocrine disruptor, not carcinogenic, and has a low toxicity.  It is not easily absorbed in to skin, and pretty mild on skin and eyes.  One fact that gives me pause is the way in which it works--by breaking the cell wall of the bacteria and damaging its DNA.  Anything that damages DNA doesn't sound very good to me.  However, the studies that have been done on the ingredient have shown that it's not strong enough to break down mamilian cells--so that's a good thing.  The bottom line: although it's not a natural ingredient that I would personally use, if you have to use it (say, in your contact solution) you can breathe a little sigh of relief that it's a safer ingredient. 

Cosmocil CQ

Cosmocil CQ is a really novel preservative, relying upon polyhexamethylene biguanide (PHMB) as the preservative, which is neither a formaldehyde releaser nor a paraben based product. The INCI is polyaminopropyl biguanide. It's both a bacteriostatic and bactericidal preservative that should be combined with a fungicide like one of the parabens, potassium sorbate, or sodium benzoate (one of the organic acids).

It's cationic and the manufacturer notes it is incompatible with what they call strongly anionic systems, so I'd be careful using it with shampoo, body wash, and other foamy surfactant mixes. It is effective for pH 4 to 10, so you can use it with pretty much any product we make, with the ideal being below 6. It's soluble in water, ethanol, glycerin, and propylene glycol but insoluble in vegetable and mineral oils and esters, so you'll want to use in products that contain water. You can use it in your creations in the water phase while you heat it or add it just before emulsification. (One data sheet says it's heat stable to 140˚C, but when do we ever reach those temperatures? So I'm going with the stable to 80˚C suggestion.) The most frequent suggestion is that we should add it to the water phase before heating.
Summary of Cosmocil CQ
INCI: Polyaminopropyl biguanide
Usage: From 0.05% to 1.5%. Approved at up to 1.5% in the EU and 0.5% in Japan.
Not suitable for anhydrous products. Add in the heated water phase of your products pre- or post-emulsification.
Suitable for products with pH 4 to 10.

I tried Cosmocil at .7%, with .14% potassium sorbate and .115% citric acid, as per one suggested use in this pdf, but my formulation didn't hold up for even a couple of weeks. I didn't realise it had to be used in the heated phase though, so maybe that was a factor. I tried it again at 1% with .2% potassium sorbate in a deodorant, and so far (a few weeks in), it's holding up much better.

I've used since May w/ max plus k sorbate max. In addition 1% lavender essential oil, 4% ethanol. Dunno if it would be as good w/o the extras though, but so far, clean as a whistle in my normal usage- jar w/ fingers daily in it. I have 3 very close friends using lotion with same formulation in pump bottle last 9 wks also. Good feedback so far. No fur, smell, or any other funkiness. OH!! it was 65% oil phase too! So can't say w/ more water phase. Gonna formulate with 75% water phase. Gonna push it to it's max with etracts, aloe, and hydrosols!!!!!!!!!! Will see next few weeks if it can tolerate all the fresh bug food!

Beware Cosmocil CQ

According to http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Chemical.jsp?Rec_Id=PC33978
Cosmocil CQ is a "possible" carcinogen.
I kid you not. It is there.
And here's more from a typical MSDS for this pretender:
"Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, the biocidal active in this product, has been extensively studied for its toxicity to mammalian systems. Repeated inhalation exposure in rats over a period of 4 weeks resulted in eye and respiratory irritation and pneumonitis. Long term feeding studies in dogs show that the liver and kidney are target organs and the effect occur but only at very high doses. Polyaminopropyl Biguanide has been shown in animal studies to produce skin sensitization." 

Essential oil caution

Toxic and Phototoxic Essential Oils

Phototoxic Essential Oils 

angelica root
bergamot (unless it's specified as "bergaptene-free")
cassia
cumin
ginger
lemon
lime (just the cold expressed oil, not the steam distilled)
lovage
mandarin (possibly)
orange (unless it's a "folded" orange - luckily, most are)
verbena 

Toxic Essential Oils - Use With Cautionanise (star) 

aniseed
bay laurel
bay (West Indian)
calamintha
camphor (white)
cassia
cedarwood (Virginian)
cinnamon (leaf)
clove (bud)
coriander
eucalyptus
fennel (sweet)
hops
hyssop
juniper
nutmeg
parsley
pepper (black)
sage (Spanish)
tagetes
tarragon
thyme (white)
turmeric
valerian

Sun sensitivity (phototoxicity) and essential oils.Essential oils that may cause sun sensitivity: sun 

sensitivity essential oils phototoxicity of essential oils 

Angelica
Bergamot *
Bitter orange (cold pressed)
Cumin
Dill
Grapefruit (cold pressed)
Lemon (cold pressed as well as distilled)
Lemon verbena
Lime (cold pressed as well as distilled)
Orange
Mandarin
Tagetes
Tangerine (cold pressed)
Yuzu
* Unless it is bergaptene-free oil - sold as Bergamot FCF.

Tinosan SDC

Tinosan, aka Silverion 2400, aka, Silver Citrate

Silver Citrate is a preservative that's marketed as a "natural" alternative. Silver works by breaking down the cell membrane of the bacterium and denaturing the enzymes within, thus killing the cell.  Silver citrate is a the salt of silver and citric acid, where silver exists in its ionic form.  Silver citrate in the presence of citric acid (which, when sold as this preservative it's a blend of citric acid and silver citrate) is soluble in water. 

Silver ions, as found in Silver Citrate are extremely potent anti-microbial agents.  The problem is that silver ions cannot distinguish between "good" cells and "bad" cells.

Dissolved ionic silver is the most biologically active form of silver, is highly toxic to all living cells and bioaccumulative.
Downstream it sticks to fish gills, keeping them from breathing.
Contributes to antibiotic resistance.
Silver ions were found to accumulate of the brains and testes of the mammals (mice) studied.

Synthesis and antimicrobial activity of silver citrate complexes

Abstract
Formation of silver citrate/citric acid complexed solutions was investigated. Although, silver citrate is minimally soluble in water, it can successfully be dissolved in citric acid solutions...the diluted silver citrate/citric acid complexed solutions have exhibited very strong bacteriostatic and bactericidal activities.

Since this preservative contains silver, could it potentially cause Argyria?

When exposed to the skin it does not turn the skin black. I have applied it full strength to my skin and have even drank a small quantity of it. Being an RN and with years of ER and ICU experience I understand the dangers associated with silver poisoning, which is not possible with this product. It is a silver salt of citric acid and can't cause silver poisoning like colloidal silver. When it is absorbed into the skin it immediately becomes inert because it binds with the free sodium in our bodies and on our skin. It is then excreted out through the kidneys. Remember it is used at 0.1-0.3% so the amount absorbed even if you used a whole bottle of a product would be very tiny and it becomes inert upon contact with sodium. This is why it can be less effective in products with a really high salt content.
Silver is used by the medical profession and has been for years. It is instilled in newborns eyes to prevent gonorrhea and foley catheters are impregnated with it to prevent migration of germs and bacteria up the catheter and into the bladder which is sterile. We also use silver nitrate to cauterize nose bleeds. All of these are examples of silver being used in an effective and safe manner. Ingestion of colloidal silver is and has been controversial for a long time and has lead to heavy metal poisoning. These are not the same silver molecules and behave very differently in the body.