Petrolatum clogs the pores: FALSE.
Nope, not the case. In fact, petrolatum has been affirmed to be non-comedogenic and to not cause allergic reactions (American Academy of Dermatology Invitational on Comedogenicity, 1989).
The greasy, oily feeling of petrolatum leads consumers to believe that petrolatum makes them break out, yet what actually can actually cause break outs is what is used in conjunction with petrolatum. Because petrolatum traps moisture and water-based ingredients under the skin, it can essentially “trap” non-comedogenic ingredients used together with petrolatum under there, causing stronger reactions (Allergy, 2004). Be sure to avoid ingredients like lanolin, coconut oil, squalene, mineral oil, and isopropyl myristate when using petrolatum (Cosmetic Dermatology, 2002).
2014년 8월 2일 토요일
Petrolatum
2014년 7월 14일 월요일
UVA and UVB
UVA
Most of us are exposed to large amounts of UVA throughout our lifetime. UVA rays account for up to 95 percent of the UV radiation reaching the Earth's surface. Although they are less intense than UVB, UVA rays are 30 to 50 times more prevalent. They are present with relatively equal intensity during all daylight hours throughout the year, and can penetrate clouds and glass.
UVA, which penetrates the skin more deeply than UVB, has long been known to play a major part in skin aging and wrinkling (photoaging), but until recently scientists believed it did not cause significant damage in areas of the epidermis (outermost skin layer) where most skin cancers occur. Studies over the past two decades, however, show that UVA damages skin cells called keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, where most skin cancers occur. (Basal and squamous cells are types of keratinocytes.) UVA contributes to and may even initiate the development of skin cancers.
UVB
UVB, the chief cause of skin reddening and sunburn, tends to damage the skin's more superficial epidermal layers. It plays a key role in the development of skin cancer and a contributory role in tanning and photoaging. Its intensity varies by season, location, and time of day. The most significant amount of UVB hits the U.S. between 10 AM and 4 PM from April to October. However, UVB rays can burn and damage your skin year-round, especially at high altitudes and on reflective surfaces such as snow or ice, which bounce back up to 80 percent of the rays so that they hit the skin twice. UVB rays do not significantly penetrate glass.
Sun Protection Factors (SPF) and UV radiation
Since the advent of modern sunscreens, a sunscreen's efficacy has been measured by its sun protection factor, or SPF. SPF is not an amount of protection per se. Rather, it indicates how long it will take for UVB rays to redden skin when using a sunscreen, compared to how long skin would take to redden without the product. For instance, someone using a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 will take 15 times longer to redden than without the sunscreen. An SPF 15 sunscreen screens 93 percent of the sun's UVB rays; SPF 30 protects against 97 percent; and SPF 50, 98 percent. The Skin Cancer Foundation maintains that SPFs of 15 or higher are necessary for adequate protection.
FDA-Approved Sunscreens Active Ingredient/UV Filter Name Range Covered UVA1: 340-400 nm UVA2: 320-340 nm UVB: 290-320 nm Chemical Absorbers: Aminobenzoic acid (PABA) UVB Avobenzone UVA1 Cinoxate UVB Dioxybenzone UVB, UVA2 Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX) UVA2 Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimiazole Sulfonic Acid) UVB Homosalate UVB Meradimate (Menthyl Anthranilate) UVA2 Octocrylene UVB Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate) UVB Octisalate ( Octyl Salicylate) UVB Oxybenzone UVB, UVA2 Padimate O UVB Sulisobenzone UVB, UVA2 Trolamine Salicylate UVB Physical Filters: Titanium Dioxide UVB, UVA2 Zinc Oxide UVB,UVA2, UVA1
Physical: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide,
Chemical: avobenzone (Parsol, Eusolex, Escalol), bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone), benzophenone-4 (Sulisobenzone), ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole), homosalate, octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), octyl salicylate (octisalate), octocrylene
Hybrid: bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M)
UVB blockers: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole), homosalate, octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), octyl salicylate (octisalate), benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone), benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone)
UVA blockers: avobenzone (Parsol, Eusolex, Escalol), ecamsule (Mexoryl SX),
UVA+UVB blockers: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M), bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), octocrylene
Natural Oils for Sunscreen
Carrier Oils and SPF
The Best Natural Oils for Sunscreen
Carrier Oil /SPF
Red Raspberry Seed/28 - 50
Carrot Seed Oil/38 - 40
Wheatgerm/20
Soybean/10
Macadamia Nut/6
Jojoba/4
Sesame Seed Oil/2 - 4
Shea Butter/3 - 6
Coconut/2 - 8
Olive/2 - 8
Avocado (unrefined)/4 - 15
Castor Oil /6
Almond Oil/5
The Best Natural Oils for Sunscreen
Red Raspberry Seed Oil – SPF 28 – 50
This one is one of the most popular oils for SPF and can have a range of 28 – 50 (depending on the oil’s quality). Red raspberry oil is actually close to equivalent of the protection you would receive from Titanium Dioxide, found in most mineral sunscreens. The essential fatty acids and host of antioxidants in this oil are also great for other skin healing purposes including eczema and psoriasis. Red Raspberry Seed Oil protects against UVA & UVB rays.
Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil
Carrot Seed Oil – SPF 38 – 40
Carrot oil, which doubles as an antispetic is said to contain a high SPF factor when diluted with a carrier oil. According to a study published in “Pharmacognosy Magazine” in 2009, products containing carrot seed oil have a natural SPF of between 38 and 40.
Wheatgerm Oil – SPF 20
Wheatgerm is packed with vitamins and minerals – namely Vitamin E, K & B – so it also acts as free radical preventer while it protects you from the sun.
Other Oils with SPF 10 or Less
There are a host of other oils with lesser SPF factors, but may be adequate for some more bronzed babes.
Macadamia Oil – SPF 6
Non-GMO Soybean Oil – SPF 10
Avocado Oil – 4 – 10 (can get as high as 15)
Olive Oil - 2-8
Shea Butter – 3 – 6
Almond Oil – SPF 5
Sesame Seed Oil – SPF 4
Hemp Seed Oil – SPF 6
Jojoba Oil – SPF 4
Coconut Oil – SPF 2 – 8
Use Caution When Using Natural Oils for Sunscreen
Since not all oils are created equal, the SPF can vary when it is on your skin. Determining the exact SPF factor of an oil is difficult, espeically given that natural oils oxidize (lose some of their medicinal properties) over time and when exposed to light. Ensure that you are purchasing your oils from a recommended source and always do your research.
Another note about UVA & UVB rays: Aside from Red Raspberry Seed Oil,most plant oils protect only against UVB rays. Use caution or mix with a non-nano sized zinc oxide formula (non-nano meaning it doesn’t absorb into your skin).
Natural Oils as Sun Protection
Wheatgerm Oil – Wheatgerm is one of the best sources of natural vitamin E and is also a good source of vitamin K, B vitamins and choline. When applied to the skin, wheatgerm oil helps to moisturize tissues and acts as an antioxidant to prevent free radical damage. Wheatgerm oil has a natural SPF rating of 20.
Rice Bran Oil - Rice bran oil contains gamma oryzanol, a naturally occurring plant byproduct. The chemicals in gamma oryzanol suppress the rising melanin levels thereby blocking the transmittance of ultraviolet rays through the surface of the skin. This process whitens the skin a slight amount and has historically been used in Japanese culture to produce a glowing complexion. It has an SPF of 2-4.
Another tip for getting the most protection while out in the sun… DO NOT BATHE before going outside of an extended period of time. What we are doing to our skin by washing off natural oils is causing it to be more susceptible to the sun’s rays. We are leaving our largest organ with no protective barrier. Human sebum has a natural SPF of 6-8. Why would you want to wash that off? In addition, try not to bathe immediately after coming in from a day in the sun. Your body needs time to finish processing the Vitamin D and UVA/UVB rays. Try to wait at least an hour before showering.
2014년 7월 13일 일요일
Natural sunscreen
Another amazing essential oil that has ancient historical backing to it’s efficiency in preventing sunburn is Myrrh oil. Ancient Egyptians used this oil exclusivley to prevent sunburn. The essential oil myrrh comes from a thorny shrub in Somalia and Arabia and has been used since the time of Hippocrates—the father of Western medicine. It is widely known for its healing ability. Myrrh can be used to treat the dry, scaly skin associated with excessive sun exposure, according to “The Guide to Remedies: Homeopathy, Essential Oils, Crystals and Home Remedies.”
LAVENDER VS MYRRH FOR SUNSCREEN PROTECTION Helichrysum oil has also been extensively researched and found to be a very effective natural sunscreen. The added benefit of using both Myrrh and Helichrysum essential oils, as well as the other natural sources listed above is that they can also help to repair sun damage to skin cells after excessive sun exposure, so not only are these great sunscreens but they are great after sun lotions as well.is the sunscreen lotion recipe more waterproof since it has beeswax in it? - Yes
2014년 6월 25일 수요일
Emulsifier - polysorbate
Question: Polysorbate 20 vs. polysorbate 80
Emulsions and the HLB System
Polysorbates 20 and 80 used in the formulation of protein biotherapeutics: structure and degradation pathways.
Evaluation Report of Food Additives Polysorbates (Polysorbates 20, 60, 65 and 80)
Polysorbate 20
Ingredient Watch List: Polysorbate 20—It May Be Contaminated with Carcinogenic 1,4-Dioxane
Polysorbate 20
The short answer is that we use polysorbate 20 to emulsify small amounts of lighter oils and polysorbate 80 to emulsify slighter larger amounts of heavier oils.
Emulsions and the HLB System
Polysorbates 20 and 80 used in the formulation of protein biotherapeutics: structure and degradation pathways.
Evaluation Report of Food Additives Polysorbates (Polysorbates 20, 60, 65 and 80)
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 20 - Polysorbate 20 is commonly used to emulsify oils and water at a 1:1 ratio. It is a nonionic surfactant that is water-soluble and used as a dispersing agent. It is gentle and nonirritating. Normally, you need a solubilizer, such as Polysorbate 20, to mix your essential or fragrance oils into body sprays without separating. Combine equal amounts of your fragrance or essential oil and the Polysorbate 20 until you achieve a clear solution, then, add this mixture to your water or alcohol.
Ingredient Watch List: Polysorbate 20—It May Be Contaminated with Carcinogenic 1,4-Dioxane
In its original form, polysorbate is a harmless sorbitol, which is a sugar alcohol. For its use in personal care products, however, it’s treated with ethylene oxide—thus, the name “polysorbate 20,” because it’s treated with 20 parts of ethylene oxide.
The result is an ingredient used as an emulsifier in cosmetic creams (to help mix oil and water), lotions, cream deodorant, baby oil, sun lotion, etc.
The problem with any ingredient that is treated with ethylene oxide (or “ethoxylated”) is that it can then become contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, a potentially dangerous by-product. In fact, 1,4-dioxane is a known animal carcinogen that penetrates readily into the skin. This ingredient has also been linked with skin allergies.
Other concerns with polysorbate-20 are that it resulted in developmental and reproductive toxicity in animal studies, but high doses were administered before these results were observed. Moderate doses are also linked with skin irritation.
Polysorbate 20
A potential alternative to Polysorbate is to use an alternative liquid emulsifier such as CCC Surfactant. I know where to get it in Australia but not elsewhere. Olivemulse is also another alternative. Polysorbate is a low mole surfactant (they are usually wetting agents) and acts as an emulsifier of oil in water emulsions.
2014년 6월 14일 토요일
INCI: Emulsifying Wax NF safe
lotioncrafter.com - POLAWAX NF.pdf
"POLAWAX sets the standard for self emulsifying waxes monographed in the National Formulary. It is the premier nonionic self-emulsifying wax used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. It is a mild ingredient with a proven safety record and has been used successfully for many years."
"POLAWAX sets the standard for self emulsifying waxes monographed in the National Formulary. It is the premier nonionic self-emulsifying wax used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. It is a mild ingredient with a proven safety record and has been used successfully for many years."
Paraffin Wax is Toxic
naturalcandles.com - Paraffin Toxicity
"Paraffin is a byproduct of petroleum, a non-renewable resource."
"According to a study done at South Carolina State University in 2009, the chemicals found in the fumes of paraffin candles are linked to cancer, birth defects, and such respiratory ailments as asthma––especially when there are many of them burning in enclosed, unventilated spaces like restaurants, churches, or a room in your home."
"When paraffin candles burn, they emit black soot and toxic fumes—similar in chemistry to diesel exhaust—containing poisonous chemicals such as benzene, toluene, naphthalene, tri-decane, tetra-decane, penta-decane, and hexadecane."
digitalfire.com - Paraffin Toxicology
Inhalation of aerosols (if heated) :
- cough
- sputum production
- exertional shortness of breath
- possibility of pulmonary damage (lipoidic pneumonia)
- alveolitis and interstitial fibrosis.
cnn.com - Study: Some types of candles may pollute indoor air
"They found that paraffin-based candles -- the most popular kind -- emitted toxic chemicals like toluene and benzene. Soybean candles did not.."
ecocandleco.com - benefits of eco candles
"paraffin wax is used in more than 95% of candle making done today, mainly because it is very inexpensive. paraffin is the leftover by-product from the petroleum refining process. studies have shown that this petroleum by-product can release the same harmful carcinogens into the atmosphere as your car produces when gasoline is burned."
greenspacecandles.com - Paraffin Wax
"Paraffin candles contain up to 11 carcinogenic compounds. These 11 compounds have been deemed 'toxic air contaminants' by the State of California. An air quality researcher, David Krause, has documented evidence that candle soot particles contain many of the same compounds given off from burning diesel fuel."
"Paraffin is a byproduct of petroleum, a non-renewable resource."
"According to a study done at South Carolina State University in 2009, the chemicals found in the fumes of paraffin candles are linked to cancer, birth defects, and such respiratory ailments as asthma––especially when there are many of them burning in enclosed, unventilated spaces like restaurants, churches, or a room in your home."
"When paraffin candles burn, they emit black soot and toxic fumes—similar in chemistry to diesel exhaust—containing poisonous chemicals such as benzene, toluene, naphthalene, tri-decane, tetra-decane, penta-decane, and hexadecane."
digitalfire.com - Paraffin Toxicology
Inhalation of aerosols (if heated) :
- cough
- sputum production
- exertional shortness of breath
- possibility of pulmonary damage (lipoidic pneumonia)
- alveolitis and interstitial fibrosis.
cnn.com - Study: Some types of candles may pollute indoor air
"They found that paraffin-based candles -- the most popular kind -- emitted toxic chemicals like toluene and benzene. Soybean candles did not.."
ecocandleco.com - benefits of eco candles
"paraffin wax is used in more than 95% of candle making done today, mainly because it is very inexpensive. paraffin is the leftover by-product from the petroleum refining process. studies have shown that this petroleum by-product can release the same harmful carcinogens into the atmosphere as your car produces when gasoline is burned."
greenspacecandles.com - Paraffin Wax
"Paraffin candles contain up to 11 carcinogenic compounds. These 11 compounds have been deemed 'toxic air contaminants' by the State of California. An air quality researcher, David Krause, has documented evidence that candle soot particles contain many of the same compounds given off from burning diesel fuel."
Aloe vera benefits
organicfacts.net - Health Benefits of Aloe Vera
Improves Digestive System
Boosts Immune System
Halts Cancerous Growth
Heals Side Effects of Radiotherapy Treatments
Cures Dermatitis
Promotes Hair Growth
Reduces Arthritis Pain
Relieves Joint and Muscle Pain
Cures Wounds
Cures Menstrual Problems
Alleviates Nausea
Reduces Blood Sugar Level
Prevents Oxidative Stress
Soothes Acid Reflux Symptoms
Lowers Cholesterol and Triglycerides
Improves Cardiovascular Functions
Cures Gum Diseases
Preserves Food
Boosts Oxygenation of the Blood
Delays the Aging Process
naturalnews.com - Five ways to use Aloe Vera Gel for skincare
1. moisturizing.
2. acne.
3. skin aging.
4. stretch marks.
5. sunburn.
stylecraze.com - 23 Amazing Benefits Of Aloe Vera For Skin, Hair And Health
Nutritional value:
Aloe vera consist as much as 75 nutrients, 20 minerals, 12 vitamins, 18 amino acids and 200 active enzymes. Aloe vera contains Vitamin A, B1, B2, B6 and B12, Vitamin C and E, folic acid and Niacin. Minerals found in aloe vera include copper, iron, sodium, calcium, zinc, potassium, chromium, magnesium and manganese.
thebeautypixie.com - 20 Suprising Aloe Vera Uses That Will Make You Glow
Provide extra relief from pain or itching because of bug bites.
Minimize damaged tissues because of frostbite.
Help recover herpes virus breakouts.
Reduce annoying pimples and help treat acne problems.
It can give pain relief for psoriasis problems and cure skin irritations and ailments which sometimes cause a panic attack.
Helps get rid of Eczema.
Helps reduce pigmentation and dark spots.
Cure burns and scald.
It helps to soften and moisturize the skin.
Protect against scarring and stretch marks.
Protect the skin’s youthful properties and turn back signs of wrinkles and ageing skin.
Has proven to be a great aftershave for men.
Promote strong and healthy teeth as well as strengthen gums.
Improves Digestive System
Boosts Immune System
Halts Cancerous Growth
Heals Side Effects of Radiotherapy Treatments
Cures Dermatitis
Promotes Hair Growth
Reduces Arthritis Pain
Relieves Joint and Muscle Pain
Cures Wounds
Cures Menstrual Problems
Alleviates Nausea
Reduces Blood Sugar Level
Prevents Oxidative Stress
Soothes Acid Reflux Symptoms
Lowers Cholesterol and Triglycerides
Improves Cardiovascular Functions
Cures Gum Diseases
Preserves Food
Boosts Oxygenation of the Blood
Delays the Aging Process
naturalnews.com - Five ways to use Aloe Vera Gel for skincare
1. moisturizing.
2. acne.
3. skin aging.
4. stretch marks.
5. sunburn.
stylecraze.com - 23 Amazing Benefits Of Aloe Vera For Skin, Hair And Health
Nutritional value:
Aloe vera consist as much as 75 nutrients, 20 minerals, 12 vitamins, 18 amino acids and 200 active enzymes. Aloe vera contains Vitamin A, B1, B2, B6 and B12, Vitamin C and E, folic acid and Niacin. Minerals found in aloe vera include copper, iron, sodium, calcium, zinc, potassium, chromium, magnesium and manganese.
thebeautypixie.com - 20 Suprising Aloe Vera Uses That Will Make You Glow
Provide extra relief from pain or itching because of bug bites.
Minimize damaged tissues because of frostbite.
Help recover herpes virus breakouts.
Reduce annoying pimples and help treat acne problems.
It can give pain relief for psoriasis problems and cure skin irritations and ailments which sometimes cause a panic attack.
Helps get rid of Eczema.
Helps reduce pigmentation and dark spots.
Cure burns and scald.
It helps to soften and moisturize the skin.
Protect against scarring and stretch marks.
Protect the skin’s youthful properties and turn back signs of wrinkles and ageing skin.
Has proven to be a great aftershave for men.
Promote strong and healthy teeth as well as strengthen gums.
zinc oxide and titanium dioxide with nanotechnology
nytimes.com - What to Look for in a Sunscreen
"The ideal sunscreen would be a physical block using titanium dioxide or zinc oxide."
Pros
Enhanced sun protection of nano-sized metal oxide particles over conventional metal oxide particles: An in vitro comparative study.pdf
"The skin cosmetics containing the titanium or zinc oxide nanoparticles were found to have improved spreadability as compared to skin cosmetics containing conventional titanium or zinc oxide particles, respectively. All skin cosmetics were found to have uniform distribution of the particles."
healthcentral.com - Are Sunscreens Containing Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles Safe?
"nanotech-based sunscreens may be among the safest and most effective on the market.” [2] Further, the group reviewed 15 studies and found that, in healthy skin, there was no absorption of the nanoparticles."
Cons
news-medical.net - Zinc Oxide can potentially cause cancer
"The chemical, Zinc Oxide, is used to absorb harmful ultra violet light. But when it is turned into nano-sized particles, they are able to enter human cells and may damage the cells' DNA."
lexology.com - consumer expectations and nanomaterials in products
"In April 2014, researchers at the Harvard School of Public Health and Massachusetts Institute of Technology released research findings that nanoscale zinc oxide and nanosilver produced statistically significant DNA damage which could lead to genome damage and promote the development of cancer."
viralglobalnews.com - Sunscreen Efficacy and Safety Questioned by Studies
"Containing nanoparticles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, the researchers also suggest the sprays present problems with chemical-inhalation. Although these chemicals are essential constituents of sunscreen, they can pose health risks to those who inhale them. These nanoparticles can cause allergies when inhaled, and are known to have carcinogenic properties."
nownews.seoul.co.kr - “선크림, 피부세포 파괴할 수 있다” 충격 결과
"미국 미주리주립대학 연구팀은 선크림에 주로 함유돼 있는 산화아연(Zinc oxide)성분이 햇볕에 노출되면 활성산소 분자가 방출되는데, 이 과정에서 세포 파괴가 일어날 수 있다고 주장했다."
sciencedaily.com - Sunscreen ingredient may increase skin cancer risk
"zinc oxide nano-particles in the solution absorb the UV rays, the reaction releases electrons, which in turn may produce unstable free radical molecules in the zinc oxide solution."
"The ideal sunscreen would be a physical block using titanium dioxide or zinc oxide."
Pros
Enhanced sun protection of nano-sized metal oxide particles over conventional metal oxide particles: An in vitro comparative study.pdf
"The skin cosmetics containing the titanium or zinc oxide nanoparticles were found to have improved spreadability as compared to skin cosmetics containing conventional titanium or zinc oxide particles, respectively. All skin cosmetics were found to have uniform distribution of the particles."
healthcentral.com - Are Sunscreens Containing Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles Safe?
"nanotech-based sunscreens may be among the safest and most effective on the market.” [2] Further, the group reviewed 15 studies and found that, in healthy skin, there was no absorption of the nanoparticles."
Cons
news-medical.net - Zinc Oxide can potentially cause cancer
"The chemical, Zinc Oxide, is used to absorb harmful ultra violet light. But when it is turned into nano-sized particles, they are able to enter human cells and may damage the cells' DNA."
lexology.com - consumer expectations and nanomaterials in products
"In April 2014, researchers at the Harvard School of Public Health and Massachusetts Institute of Technology released research findings that nanoscale zinc oxide and nanosilver produced statistically significant DNA damage which could lead to genome damage and promote the development of cancer."
viralglobalnews.com - Sunscreen Efficacy and Safety Questioned by Studies
"Containing nanoparticles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, the researchers also suggest the sprays present problems with chemical-inhalation. Although these chemicals are essential constituents of sunscreen, they can pose health risks to those who inhale them. These nanoparticles can cause allergies when inhaled, and are known to have carcinogenic properties."
nownews.seoul.co.kr - “선크림, 피부세포 파괴할 수 있다” 충격 결과
"미국 미주리주립대학 연구팀은 선크림에 주로 함유돼 있는 산화아연(Zinc oxide)성분이 햇볕에 노출되면 활성산소 분자가 방출되는데, 이 과정에서 세포 파괴가 일어날 수 있다고 주장했다."
sciencedaily.com - Sunscreen ingredient may increase skin cancer risk
"zinc oxide nano-particles in the solution absorb the UV rays, the reaction releases electrons, which in turn may produce unstable free radical molecules in the zinc oxide solution."
Toxic chemicals in cosmetics
BHA and BHT
Coal tar dyes: p-phenylenediamine and colours listed as "CI" followed by a five digit number
DEA-related ingredients
Dibutyl phthalate
Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives
Parabens
Parfum (a.k.a. fragrance)
PEG compounds
Petrolatum
Siloxanes
Sodium laureth sulfate
Triclosan
davidsuzuki.org - dirty dozen cosmetic chemicals
Dirty-dozen-backgrounder.pdf
Coal tar dyes: p-phenylenediamine and colours listed as "CI" followed by a five digit number
DEA-related ingredients
Dibutyl phthalate
Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives
Parabens
Parfum (a.k.a. fragrance)
PEG compounds
Petrolatum
Siloxanes
Sodium laureth sulfate
Triclosan
davidsuzuki.org - dirty dozen cosmetic chemicals
Dirty-dozen-backgrounder.pdf
Ingredients to avoid in cosmetic products
Synthetic Fragrances or Perfume
1,4-dioxane Parabens
Talc
Triclosan MEA (Monoethanolamine)
DEA (Diethanolamine)
TEA (Triethanolamine)
Aluminum Chlorohydrate
Cocamide
Propylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol
Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde releasers
Benzoyl Peroxide
Synthetic pigments and colours
Phenoxyethanol
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
Mineral Oil
Sunscreen chemicals; Avobenzone, Benzophenone (benzophenone-3 or -4), Homosalate and Octylmethoxycinnamate (octinoxate), PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid)
Nanoparticles; titanium dioxide or zinc oxide
Silicone and Silicone
Lanolin
greenbeaver.com - ingredients to avoid
1,4-dioxane Parabens
Talc
Triclosan MEA (Monoethanolamine)
DEA (Diethanolamine)
TEA (Triethanolamine)
Aluminum Chlorohydrate
Cocamide
Propylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol
Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde releasers
Benzoyl Peroxide
Synthetic pigments and colours
Phenoxyethanol
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
Mineral Oil
Sunscreen chemicals; Avobenzone, Benzophenone (benzophenone-3 or -4), Homosalate and Octylmethoxycinnamate (octinoxate), PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid)
Nanoparticles; titanium dioxide or zinc oxide
Silicone and Silicone
Lanolin
greenbeaver.com - ingredients to avoid
Arbutin - skin whitening agent
Arbutin.wikipedia
"Arbutin is a glycoside; a glycosylated hydroquinone extracted from the bearberry plant in the genus Arctostaphylos. It inhibits tyrosinase and thus prevents the formation of melanin. Arbutin is therefore used as a skin-lightening agent. Arbutin is found in wheat, and is concentrated in pear skins. It is also found in Bergenia crassifolia."
highaltitudeorganics.net - Arbutin (Alpha & Beta)
"Alpha Arbutin's inhibitory mechanism is different from that of arbutin and can be up to 10 times more effective."
paulaschoice.com - definition of arbutin
"Many cosmetics companies use plant extracts that contain arbutin, such as bearberry and mulberry leaf extract"
High-yield enzymatic bioconversion of hydroquinone to alpha-arbutin, a powerful skin lightening agent, by amylosucrase.pdf
"α-Arbutin (α-Ab) is a powerful skin whitening agent that blocks epidermal melanin biosynthesis by inhibiting the enzymatic oxidation of tyrosine and L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA). α-Ab was effectively synthesized from hydroquinone(HQ) by enzymatic biotransformation using amylosucrase (ASase)."
Assessment of a new skin brightening emulgel containing glycolic acid, lactic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, and UVA/UVB filters in females with melasma.pdf
"The emulgel containing glycolic acid, lactic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, and UVA/UVB filters reduced brown and UV spots in women with melasma, resulting in a decrease of MASI score in the volunteers and can be considered a useful hydroquinone-free option regarding the treatment of patients with melasma."
"Arbutin is a glycoside; a glycosylated hydroquinone extracted from the bearberry plant in the genus Arctostaphylos. It inhibits tyrosinase and thus prevents the formation of melanin. Arbutin is therefore used as a skin-lightening agent. Arbutin is found in wheat, and is concentrated in pear skins. It is also found in Bergenia crassifolia."
highaltitudeorganics.net - Arbutin (Alpha & Beta)
"Alpha Arbutin's inhibitory mechanism is different from that of arbutin and can be up to 10 times more effective."
paulaschoice.com - definition of arbutin
"Many cosmetics companies use plant extracts that contain arbutin, such as bearberry and mulberry leaf extract"
High-yield enzymatic bioconversion of hydroquinone to alpha-arbutin, a powerful skin lightening agent, by amylosucrase.pdf
"α-Arbutin (α-Ab) is a powerful skin whitening agent that blocks epidermal melanin biosynthesis by inhibiting the enzymatic oxidation of tyrosine and L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA). α-Ab was effectively synthesized from hydroquinone(HQ) by enzymatic biotransformation using amylosucrase (ASase)."
Assessment of a new skin brightening emulgel containing glycolic acid, lactic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, and UVA/UVB filters in females with melasma.pdf
"The emulgel containing glycolic acid, lactic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, and UVA/UVB filters reduced brown and UV spots in women with melasma, resulting in a decrease of MASI score in the volunteers and can be considered a useful hydroquinone-free option regarding the treatment of patients with melasma."
Cooking oils vs Carrier oils
Carrier oil.wikipedia
"Carrier oil, also known as base oil or vegetable oil, is used to dilute essential oils and absolutes before they are applied to the skin in massage and aromatherapy."
"High quality oils sold for culinary use are often eminently suitable for massage use, and are economical; those obtained by cold pressing are preferred."
makeskincare.blogspot.ca - Cosmetic Grade vs Food Grade for your Skin Care Making
"Pharmaceutical grade skin care products are FDA regulated...99.9% pure ingredients"
"Cosmetic Grade ... 70% pure"
"Food grade ... eaten safely"
naturallycurly.com - DIFFERENCES IN FOOD-GRADE OILS VERSUS COSMETIC GRADE.threds
skincaretalk.com - cosmetic vs. food grade oil
"Food grade: no fine particles (heavily filtered), no biological contaminants (oganisms), and no adulterants."
mountainroseherbs.com -A Note about the different qualities of oil
"Cold Pressed - A method of mechanical extraction where heat is reduced and minimized throughout the batching of the raw material. This helps the oil maintain its original state, constituents, and depth. Temperatures are rigorously controlled to ensure that it does not exceed 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit. Although not a practical method of extraction for all vegetable oils on the market it is highly regarded as the extraction method of choice.
Expeller Pressed - A method of natural, mechanical extraction and processing of oils where a small amount of heat is produced simply through the frictional heat created by hydraulic presses. This is usually around 120-200 degrees Fahrenheit and makes the oil suitable and economical as a base for cosmetics because of its fairly undisturbed molecular state. It also makes a fine food grade oil.
Refined - A fully processed oil where it has been exposed to all methods of refinement including a flash fluctuation in temperature as high as 450 degrees and winterization as low as -30 degrees, deodorization, which removes the heavy and often unsettling odor in oil, and finally bleaching, where natural clays and other mediums are used to alter or remove an oils color, and scent. This makes for an economical oil in cosmetics and body care products, but it is not the healthiest as a food grade oil.
Partially Refined - A process where only some of the methods available are employed to produce a manufactured oil. Only one or two of the three available methods are used in a partially refined oil. These include, but are not limited to; deodorization, winterization and natural bleaching. These methods are used for oils which have been known historically to go rancid quickly, and they are also used to further stabilize an oil or remove its heavy odor and deep color.
Unrefined - A process of mechanical extraction and screen filtering where no additional refining process has taken place. This ensures the finest quality product and makes the oil the most exquisite for food and cosmetic preparation. The unrefined process helps oil retain a rich, strong flavor and color that is true to its natural state. Unrefined oils are always darker in color and richer in scent."
Saponification value.wikipedia
fromnaturewithlove.com - Saponification Chart
aromaweb.com - Shopping For Carrier Oils
"Carrier oil, also known as base oil or vegetable oil, is used to dilute essential oils and absolutes before they are applied to the skin in massage and aromatherapy."
"High quality oils sold for culinary use are often eminently suitable for massage use, and are economical; those obtained by cold pressing are preferred."
makeskincare.blogspot.ca - Cosmetic Grade vs Food Grade for your Skin Care Making
"Pharmaceutical grade skin care products are FDA regulated...99.9% pure ingredients"
"Cosmetic Grade ... 70% pure"
"Food grade ... eaten safely"
naturallycurly.com - DIFFERENCES IN FOOD-GRADE OILS VERSUS COSMETIC GRADE.threds
skincaretalk.com - cosmetic vs. food grade oil
"Food grade: no fine particles (heavily filtered), no biological contaminants (oganisms), and no adulterants."
mountainroseherbs.com -A Note about the different qualities of oil
"Cold Pressed - A method of mechanical extraction where heat is reduced and minimized throughout the batching of the raw material. This helps the oil maintain its original state, constituents, and depth. Temperatures are rigorously controlled to ensure that it does not exceed 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit. Although not a practical method of extraction for all vegetable oils on the market it is highly regarded as the extraction method of choice.
Expeller Pressed - A method of natural, mechanical extraction and processing of oils where a small amount of heat is produced simply through the frictional heat created by hydraulic presses. This is usually around 120-200 degrees Fahrenheit and makes the oil suitable and economical as a base for cosmetics because of its fairly undisturbed molecular state. It also makes a fine food grade oil.
Refined - A fully processed oil where it has been exposed to all methods of refinement including a flash fluctuation in temperature as high as 450 degrees and winterization as low as -30 degrees, deodorization, which removes the heavy and often unsettling odor in oil, and finally bleaching, where natural clays and other mediums are used to alter or remove an oils color, and scent. This makes for an economical oil in cosmetics and body care products, but it is not the healthiest as a food grade oil.
Partially Refined - A process where only some of the methods available are employed to produce a manufactured oil. Only one or two of the three available methods are used in a partially refined oil. These include, but are not limited to; deodorization, winterization and natural bleaching. These methods are used for oils which have been known historically to go rancid quickly, and they are also used to further stabilize an oil or remove its heavy odor and deep color.
Unrefined - A process of mechanical extraction and screen filtering where no additional refining process has taken place. This ensures the finest quality product and makes the oil the most exquisite for food and cosmetic preparation. The unrefined process helps oil retain a rich, strong flavor and color that is true to its natural state. Unrefined oils are always darker in color and richer in scent."
Saponification value.wikipedia
fromnaturewithlove.com - Saponification Chart
aromaweb.com - Shopping For Carrier Oils
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