레이블이 Info - Preservative인 게시물을 표시합니다. 모든 게시물 표시
레이블이 Info - Preservative인 게시물을 표시합니다. 모든 게시물 표시

2014년 7월 15일 화요일

Benzyl Benzoate - No

Benzyl Benzoate

What is it:
Benzyl benzoate is a synthetic chemical used as a fragrance ingredient, artificial flavor, preservative, and solvent.  It is also considered an over the counter drug and can be used as a scabies or lice treatment.  It is an ester of benzyl alcohol and benzoic acid. 
What are it's risks:
Benzyl benzoate has been found to posess weakly estrogenic properties and have weak stimulating action upon the growth of breast cancer cells in One Study. However, This Study found benzyl benzoate not to display this activity at the concentration tested.
Listed as a suspected allergen by the EU Cosmetics Directive. (Source)
From Drugs.Com, the side effects of medical-strength benzyl benzoate are:
Blister formation, crusting, itching, oozing, reddening, or scaling of skin
difficulty in urinating (dribbling)
jerking movements
sudden loss of consciousness
burning or itching of skin
         These side effects are usually only seen at high doses and concentrations, however, damaged skin or    impaired immune function may make certain individuals more suseptible to reactions.
Brands that use benzyl benzoate include: Jason, The Body Shop, Origins, Weleda, Dermalogica & Zia. 
Steph's Opinion:
I would classify the estrogen-mimicking properties of benzyl benzoate as potential, but not confirmed.  As a person who seeks to avoid xenoestrogens (chemicals that mimic estrogen in the body) I, as a precautionary measure, avoid benzyl benzoate as well.


Benzyl benzoate is a component of cinnamon essential oil

Benzyl Alcohol

What is it?
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol used as a preservative, as the active ingredient in head lice treatment, and as a solvent.  It is most often created by combining benzyl chloride (a suspected carcinogen that has been used as a war gas) with sodium hydroxide (lye).  Sometimes it is created by reacting Phenylmagnesium Bromide (C6H5MgBr) with Formaldehyde.
Benzyl alcohol also does naturally occur in green and other teas, and some essential oils including ylang ylang and jasmine.  
Is it a risk?
Benzyl Alcohol can act as a skin sensitizer in some people, and, according to a 1998 study can "can instigate immune system response that can include itching, burning, scaling, hives, and blistering of skin" at certain concentrations.It is a common skin contact allergen. (Source)High concentrations can induce asthma and bronchitis in some individuals. (Source)Benzyl alcohol was formerly used in neonatal care as a preservative in intravenous drips, however, infants started getting benzyl alcohol poisoning (with numerous fatalities), and it has now been discontinued in this use. (Source) Can react with titanium dioxide to form aldehydes, including formaldehyde. (Source)When high concentrations of benzyl alcohol were injected in to cows uteruses, it shortened their estrus cycle. (Source) However, it is unknown if or how benzyl alcohol reacts with the human reproductive system.  
Steph's Opinion:
Should you avoid products containing ylang ylang or jasmine essential oils?  Benzyl alcohol is a component of these essential oils, but it is a minor constituent of these essential oils.  Toxic reactions and allergies to benzyl alcohol usually occur when the isolated chemical is used in a higher concentration as a preservative (1-5% of the formulation.) A product containing one of these essential oils may contain .5% of the essential oil, 1% of which may be benzyl alcohol, so the total concentration of benzyl alcohol would be .005%. If you were a person that has a history of being allergic to benzyl alcohol, then you may want to avoid these two essential oils just to be safe.  However, if not, this is not a large enough concentration to be concerned with for the general population. Jasmine and Ylang Ylang have a history of not causing sensitization, irritation, or toxicity when used properly.   

I purchased Saline Nasal Spray because it was recommended by a doctor a few months ago when I had a sinus infection. I liked the way it moisturized, since I live in the desert, so I recently picked up a bottle of store brand spray. I keep smelling formaldehyde; Now I know why. It contains Phenylcarbinol & Benzalkonium Chloride "as preservatives." I entered Phenylcarbinol into the Skin Deep Database & your database, and Benzyl Alcohol comes up each time. I'm so pleased to learn I've been sticking this up my nose! (sarcasm) Is there a safer alternative to achieve the same results as the nasal spray? I've heard a little about a Netti Pot. There are several choices as the drug store, but I don't know what to look for in the packets. Will I need to buy distilled water? Should this stuff be avoided all together?

I am a medicinal chemist with 25 years of experience in pharmaceutical chemistry. Medicinal chemists work with these drugs every single day. You won't find better experts anywhere. It is true that benzyl alcohol, just like any other chemical, is not innocuous, but just like evrything else, it's how much you use that matters. The Worls Health Organization (WHO) has set safe limits for intravenous benzyl alcohol at 5mg/kg. That a quarter of one gram for a 120-pound human. That is a lot of benzyl alcohol, and it is by intravenous injection. So you can see that the small amount in your cosmetic product is not likely to harm you.

Ive found that nasal sprays containing benzyl Alcohol cause me to experience burning in my nostrils and down my throat, and shortly after i use them oftentimes a headache and flushing. Ones without B.A. do not cause this.





2014년 7월 13일 일요일

Potassium Sorbate

Potassium sorbate is the salt of sorbic acid (natural fatty acid). In water potassium sorbate releases sorbic acid which is the active agent.
Appearance: White, fine granules, Slight sweet odor. Easily soluble in cold water.
It is a very effective preservative active against molds, yeast and aerophile bacteria in a wide pH range of 2-6.5 and for extended periods of time.
Typical concentration 0.15-0.3% (if used alone) or 0.1-0.2% (if used in combination with other preservatives).
It is  used to preserve all kinds of cosmetic products like creams, lotions, shampoos, makeup & sunscreen products. Potassium Sorbate is a mild preservative. Its primary use is as a food preservative.
Potassium sorbate is used to inhibit molds, and yeasts in many foods, such as cheese, wine, yogurt, dried meats, and baked goods. It can also be found in the ingredients list of many dried fruit products. In addition, herbal dietary supplement products generally contain potassium sorbate, which acts to prevent mold and microbes and to increase shelf life, and is used in such tiny quantities that there are no known adverse health effects.
It is used in many personal care products to inhibit the development of microorganisms for shelf stability. Some manufacturers are using this preservative as a replacement for parabens.
Potassium sorbate is the potassium salt of sorbic acid. It is made by reacting sorbic acid with potassium hydroxide.
It is effective up to pH 6.5 but effectiveness increases as the pH decreases. The lower the pH value of the product the lower amount of Sorbic Acid or Potassium Sorbate is needed for preservation.
Potassium Sorbate is considered a gentle preservative that is safe and mild because of its long term safety record and non-toxic profile. Potassium sorbate is non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Allergic reactions are rare.
Potassium Sorbate is water soluble and can be used effectively in both lotions and water-based liquid soap and shampoo formulations. Although the minimum inhibatory concentration for many fungi and bacteria is approx. 100 ppm, common usage levels range from 0.5 - 1.0%.
Dissolve K sorbate in your water phase at the beginning, to ensure proper dispersion of the product.

2014년 7월 12일 토요일

Biguanide 20

CAS No. 27083-27-8
Biguanide 20, also known as Polyaminopropyl Biguanide (PABG), is a broad spectrum, fast acting bactericide. It is provided by the manufacturer as a 20% solution in water.  A 20% aqueous solution of poly(hexamethylenebiguanide) hydrochloride, also known as PHMB, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, used at an appropriate usage level (of 0.2 - 1.5%) is an effective preservative for make-up removers, moisturizing toners, facial cleansers, wet wipes and also offers antibacterial and deodorant properties. Originally formulated for the contact lens industry, it is also typically used in baby wipes. It is gentle in-use, with low eye and skin irritancy and low oral toxicity.
Biguanide 20 is an effective non-formaldehyde, non-paraben preservative with no VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) which is heat and UV stable. It is effective over a broad pH range (4-10), but most effective at a pH of 6.0 or less. As it is cationic, it is compatible with cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. It is incompatible with strongly anionic systems.
Biguanide 20 is incompatible with natural liquid soaps and beeswax/borax emulsions. It is more compatible with cationic emulsifiers like Lotioncrafter BTMS. Polyaminopropyl Biguanide is not compatible with Xanthan Gum.
Biguanide 20 is heat stable to at least 80°C (176°F) and can be added pre or post emulsification. For complex formulations, consider combining with another preservative for a broader spectrum of activity or potassium sorbate for increased antifungal/mold protection.**
Recommended usage level: 0.2 - 1.5%.
Appearance: Clear to slightly pale yellow, slightly opalescent liquid.
pH: 5.0 - 5.5
Specific Gravity: 1.04
Solubility: Soluble in water. Miscible with ethanol, glycerin, and propylene glycol.

INCI: Polyaminopropyl Biguanide


Polyaminopropyl Biguanide
Although a synthetic ingredient, it is not a terribly dangerous one.  It is not known to be mutagenic on mamilian cells, not an endocrine disruptor, not carcinogenic, and has a low toxicity.  It is not easily absorbed in to skin, and pretty mild on skin and eyes.  One fact that gives me pause is the way in which it works--by breaking the cell wall of the bacteria and damaging its DNA.  Anything that damages DNA doesn't sound very good to me.  However, the studies that have been done on the ingredient have shown that it's not strong enough to break down mamilian cells--so that's a good thing.  The bottom line: although it's not a natural ingredient that I would personally use, if you have to use it (say, in your contact solution) you can breathe a little sigh of relief that it's a safer ingredient. 


Cosmocil CQ
Cosmocil CQ is a really novel preservative, relying upon polyhexamethylene biguanide (PHMB) as the preservative, which is neither a formaldehyde releaser nor a paraben based product. The INCI is polyaminopropyl biguanide. It's both a bacteriostatic and bactericidal preservative that should be combined with a fungicide like one of the parabens, potassium sorbate, or sodium benzoate (one of the organic acids).

It's cationic and the manufacturer notes it is incompatible with what they call strongly anionic systems, so I'd be careful using it with shampoo, body wash, and other foamy surfactant mixes. It is effective for pH 4 to 10, so you can use it with pretty much any product we make, with the ideal being below 6. It's soluble in water, ethanol, glycerin, and propylene glycol but insoluble in vegetable and mineral oils and esters, so you'll want to use in products that contain water. You can use it in your creations in the water phase while you heat it or add it just before emulsification. (One data sheet says it's heat stable to 140˚C, but when do we ever reach those temperatures? So I'm going with the stable to 80˚C suggestion.) The most frequent suggestion is that we should add it to the water phase before heating.
Summary of Cosmocil CQ
INCI: Polyaminopropyl biguanide
Usage: From 0.05% to 1.5%. Approved at up to 1.5% in the EU and 0.5% in Japan.
Not suitable for anhydrous products. Add in the heated water phase of your products pre- or post-emulsification.
Suitable for products with pH 4 to 10.

I tried Cosmocil at .7%, with .14% potassium sorbate and .115% citric acid, as per one suggested use in this pdf, but my formulation didn't hold up for even a couple of weeks. I didn't realise it had to be used in the heated phase though, so maybe that was a factor. I tried it again at 1% with .2% potassium sorbate in a deodorant, and so far (a few weeks in), it's holding up much better.

I've used since May w/ max plus k sorbate max. In addition 1% lavender essential oil, 4% ethanol. Dunno if it would be as good w/o the extras though, but so far, clean as a whistle in my normal usage- jar w/ fingers daily in it. I have 3 very close friends using lotion with same formulation in pump bottle last 9 wks also. Good feedback so far. No fur, smell, or any other funkiness. OH!! it was 65% oil phase too! So can't say w/ more water phase. Gonna formulate with 75% water phase. Gonna push it to it's max with etracts, aloe, and hydrosols!!!!!!!!!! Will see next few weeks if it can tolerate all the fresh bug food!


Beware Cosmocil CQ
According to http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Chemical.jsp?Rec_Id=PC33978
Cosmocil CQ is a "possible" carcinogen.
I kid you not. It is there.
And here's more from a typical MSDS for this pretender:
"Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, the biocidal active in this product, has been extensively studied for its toxicity to mammalian systems. Repeated inhalation exposure in rats over a period of 4 weeks resulted in eye and respiratory irritation and pneumonitis. Long term feeding studies in dogs show that the liver and kidney are target organs and the effect occur but only at very high doses. Polyaminopropyl Biguanide has been shown in animal studies to produce skin sensitization." 

2014년 7월 11일 금요일

Tinosan SDC

Tinosan, aka Silverion 2400, aka, Silver Citrate
Silver Citrate is a preservative that's marketed as a "natural" alternative. Silver works by breaking down the cell membrane of the bacterium and denaturing the enzymes within, thus killing the cell.  Silver citrate is a the salt of silver and citric acid, where silver exists in its ionic form.  Silver citrate in the presence of citric acid (which, when sold as this preservative it's a blend of citric acid and silver citrate) is soluble in water. 
Silver ions, as found in Silver Citrate are extremely potent anti-microbial agents.  The problem is that silver ions cannot distinguish between "good" cells and "bad" cells.
Dissolved ionic silver is the most biologically active form of silver, is highly toxic to all living cells and bioaccumulative.
Downstream it sticks to fish gills, keeping them from breathing.
Contributes to antibiotic resistance.
Silver ions were found to accumulate of the brains and testes of the mammals (mice) studied.



Synthesis and antimicrobial activity of silver citrate complexes
Abstract
Formation of silver citrate/citric acid complexed solutions was investigated. Although, silver citrate is minimally soluble in water, it can successfully be dissolved in citric acid solutions...the diluted silver citrate/citric acid complexed solutions have exhibited very strong bacteriostatic and bactericidal activities.



Since this preservative contains silver, could it potentially cause Argyria?
When exposed to the skin it does not turn the skin black. I have applied it full strength to my skin and have even drank a small quantity of it. Being an RN and with years of ER and ICU experience I understand the dangers associated with silver poisoning, which is not possible with this product. It is a silver salt of citric acid and can't cause silver poisoning like colloidal silver. When it is absorbed into the skin it immediately becomes inert because it binds with the free sodium in our bodies and on our skin. It is then excreted out through the kidneys. Remember it is used at 0.1-0.3% so the amount absorbed even if you used a whole bottle of a product would be very tiny and it becomes inert upon contact with sodium. This is why it can be less effective in products with a really high salt content.
Silver is used by the medical profession and has been for years. It is instilled in newborns eyes to prevent gonorrhea and foley catheters are impregnated with it to prevent migration of germs and bacteria up the catheter and into the bladder which is sterile. We also use silver nitrate to cauterize nose bleeds. All of these are examples of silver being used in an effective and safe manner. Ingestion of colloidal silver is and has been controversial for a long time and has lead to heavy metal poisoning. These are not the same silver molecules and behave very differently in the body.

Geogard Ultra

The positive aspects of Geogard Ultra include:
Multi-functionality (effective in a wide variety of cosmetic products, including shampoos, lotions and skin creams)
Broad spectrum (creates an overall hostile environment for varying types of microbes within a formulation)
Globally accepted (beyond Europe and Japan, Geogard is also viewed as safe by the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association in North America as well as regulatory bodies in Latin and South America).
Laboratory tests show that Geogard improves skin moisture content
Listed as a GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) ingredient
Broad compatibility with other widely used cosmetic ingredients
Developed without reliance on animal testing
Contains no GMO’s

One of the ingredients used to manufacture Geogard Ultra is sodium benzoate...sodium benzoate and Vitamin C together create a chemical known as Benzene.  Benzene is, without question, carcinogenic.  Furthermore, Benzene fed to mice causes mitochondrial degeneration, which is viewed as one of the primary causes of aging and cell death...Sodium Benzoate on its own (not combined with Vitamin C) is in no way considered carcinogenic.



Geogard preservative information
there are very few truly natural or ‘more natural’ preservatives that have been challenge tested and shown that they are truly broad spectrum preservatives (many like some essential oils can kill bacteria but they are not broad spectrum). Geogard is one of them, another is leucidal. Both are pretty new to the market (Geogard has only been available within the last few years. Leucidal is very new, only started seeing that a few months ago). I will be using leucidal in another toner probably (I need to test it for longer to see if I like it as much as geogard or not).

2014년 6월 27일 금요일

Phenoxyethanol

I work at an alternative/natural health clinic. A few years ago I was privileged to be tested for DNA adducts, which are things, (like chemicals for example), that have attached to the DNA in your cells. DNA provides the instructions that tell a cell how to grow and divide. Many scientists believe that cancer can result when DNA becomes altered and gives faulty or missing instructions. You do not want altered or mutated DNA!!!! Well, guess what was among the adducts I had? PHENOXYETHANOL! I had never even heard of it. Then I was dismayed to find it everywhere in cosmetics, especially the "natural" ones. I threw out everything including expensive products from that one celebrity M.D. dermatologist whom we all know, as well as those promoted by the supermodel & French doctor. I avoid this chemical now like the plague. I do not want anything adducted or attached to my DNA. 



Phenoxyethanol
What is it:
Phenoxyethanol is an aromatic ether alcohol. What does this mean? This ingredient starts out as phenol, a toxic white crystalline powder that's created from benzene (a known carcinogen) and then is treated with ethylene oxide (also a known carcinogen) and an alkalai. 
What's its job as an ingredient:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in the ingredient listed as "fragrance" and also used as a preservative. 
OMG, don't we just like to panic!!! Phenoxyethanol is one of the very few safest broad spectrum preservatives that is used at 0.5% concentration to protect YOU from the mold, that would grow in your product within 3 weeks of production. Particularly products containing water. And I am not counting shelf life here at all - from production it is. The mold and bacteria is much more harmful for our bodies then this minuscule amount of preservative. So here it goes, parabens are bad, phenoxyethanol is bad, then what is good? Mold? Some of you that's so paranoid perhaps should stick with use of Olive oil alone.


Potentially Harmful Ingredients
Phenoxyethanol
is a preservative that is primarily used in cosmetics and medications
can depress the central nervous system
may cause vomiting and diarrhea, which can lead to dehydration in infants

Phenethyl Alcohol

Phenethyl Alcohol
Phenethyl Alcohol is a colorless, transparent, slightly viscous liquid. In cosmetics and personal care products, Phenethyl Alcohol is used in the formulation of eye area makeup, makeup products, skin care products, shampoos and perfumes and colognes.
Phenethyl Alcohol prevents or retards bacterial growth, and thus protects cosmetics and personal care products from spoilage. Phenethyl Alcohol also imparts a fragrance to a product.


"Nature-identical" Phenethyl Alcohol 
“Nature-identical” phenethyl alcohol was used to create schülke's sensiva® PA 20 (INCI: Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin). Phenethyl alcohol occurs widely in nature and can be found in many essential oils, including rose, carnation, hyacinth and others. It is used as a fragrance component and has a mild rose odor. It also has properties that make it an excellent choice to help maintain the microbiological stability of personal care formulas. This activity is boosted in sensiva® PA 20 by pairing phenethyl alcohol with ethylhexylglycerin. Ethylhexylglycerin is similar to a class of chemicals that occur naturally in the liver of certain sea creatures. Being synthetically derived, ethylhexylglycerin maintains all of the beneficial preservative-boosting and moisturizing properties of these materials, without harming any living creatures.

Natural Preservatives

Preservatives commonly found in natural skin care products
Ethyl Alcohol
Ehtyl alcohol or ethanol - usually referenced on cosmetic ingredient lists as 'alcohol' or 'alcohol denat*' - works as a preservative when present in concentrations of 10-30%.
When used in these high proportions it can dry the skin and strip away natural oils. It is unsuitable for people with sensitive skin or Rosacea sufferers.
Alcohol is sometimes used in addition to other synthetic preservatives as it is a good fragrance fixative (helps to prevent aromas degrading over time).
Natural skin care companies sometimes claim their alcohol is different because it is derived from natural plant sources (e.g. grain or sugar).
Natural alcohol performs in the same as any other form of ethyl alcohol and is no kinder on the skin. *denat. is an abbreviation of the term 'denatured' which means something has been added to the ethyl alcohol to make it undrinkable.
Common additives include methanol, isopropyl alcohol and acetone.
Ethyl alcohols are not to be confused with fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol.
These have the opposite skin moisturising effect and are used as emulsifiers in cosmetic creams.
Further reading:
truthinaging.com/ingredient-spotlight/alcohol-in-cosmetics-is-it-safe
blog.paiskincare.com/2010/02/do-you-avoid-alcohol-in-your-skin-care.html 
personalcaretruth.com/2010/12/alcohol-free/ 

Benzyl Alcohol
Considered a skin and eye irritant and has been linked to Contact Dermatitis and Urticaria. It is thought to be safe in concentrations of 1% or less.
If you have sensitive skin, we would suggest patch testing (applying the product containing it to a small patch of skin, such as your inner elbow) to ensure you can tolerate it.
Further reading:
colinsbeautypages.co.uk/benzyl-alcohol/ 
chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/todays-chemical/2009/7/22/benzyl-alcohol.html 

Japanese Honeysuckle (listed as Lonicera Japonica)
This is a synthetic preservative that is often described as a "natural paraben" due to the active ingredient: Para Hydroxybenzoic Acid.
In terms of skin sensitivity, we have not seen any data (positive or negative) to suggest it is an irritant. If it works like other parabens, then it is likely to be non-irritating to most people.
Despite the innocuous name, this is a synthetic compound about which there is a great deal of controversy.
Further reading:
personalcaretruth.com/2010/07/honeysuckle-extract-the-new-paraben-debate/
www.personalcaremagazine.com/Story.aspx?Story=488 
chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/most-controversial/2010/5/8/the-final-word-on-japanese-honeysuckle-extract.html


Parabens – Butyl, Ethyl, Propyl, Isopropyl, Methyl, Benzyl
The debate rages on about these preservatives. Recent studies have raised concerns over the gradual build-up of these chemicals in the body and linked them to hormone disruption and cancer. 
However, these studies are not universally accepted, and there is a mainstream scientific consensus that on the whole parabens are safe and non-irritating.
This is to massively simplify a complex scientific question, and indeed there are several different parabens with their own individual benefits and issues.
There are no studies that we know of that demonstrate or disprove the paraben-cancer link over the long term (i.e. over 15 years).
Indeed it is almost impossible (or at least very costly) to do such a study to find out the long term effects of a particular cosmetic ingredient.
If parabens did increase the chances of developing cancers from sustained use of cosmetics over a lifetime, it would take a very long time to prove or disprove the link - literally a lifetime!
There are however studies that are considered to specifically disprove the link between the use of underarm cosmetics and cancer in the short-term.
Parabens are disallowed for use in any certified organic skin care product due to concern over their long term effects.
Further reading:
www.badscience.net/2003/06/is-there-a-link-between-breast-cancer-and-antiperspirant/
chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/most-controversial/2011/3/17/are-parabens-natural.html
www.truthinskincare.com/2008/03/parabens-part-1-introduction.html
personalcaretruth.com/2010/11/parabens-in-perspective-an-introduction/

Phenoxyethanol
Used by the majority of 'natural' and 'organic' skin care brands.
Phenoxyethanol is thought to be a skin irritant and may have long term usage concerns.
From 2012 it is disallowed as a preservative in organic certified cosmetics in Europe under COSMOS. It is already disallowed by the USDA.
Further reading:
personalcaretruth.com/2010/06/a-closer-look-at-phenoxyethanol/
chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/todays-chemical/2011/2/28/phenoxyethanol.html


Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is a common paraben replacement but a harsh skin irritant even in very low doses.
It works by slowly breaking down into formaldehyde in the product, which provides the preservative effect.
Formaldehyde is a skin irritant and should be avoided by anyone with sensitive or problem skin. In high doses (which you won't get from a skin care product) it is considered a carcinogen.
It is not allowed for use in organic products certified by the Soil Association.
Further reading:
www.truthinskincare.com/2008/01/ingredient-watch-sodium.html 
personalcaretruth.com/2011/05/ask-the-experts-sodium-hydroxymethylglycinate/ 
For more information about Formaldehyde:
personalcaretruth.com/2011/04/april-is-national-formaldehyde-month/
www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/04/14/brazilian-blowout-formaldehyde_n_849197.html



Japanese Honeysuckle – the secret Paraben
That’s why Pai does not use Japanese Honeysuckle in any of its products.


Honeysuckle Extract :: The New Paraben Debate
I have chosen not use Japanese Honeysuckle Extract as a preservative method because I cannot get full disclosure of ingredients, it does not have a proven track record and it does not have a history of testing for proven safety.


Which is Safer – Phenoxyethanol or Water?
phenoxyethanol is well over 10 times safer than water! Water intoxication can, and has, lead to death

2014년 6월 23일 월요일

Sodium Benzoate

Nine Facts about Sodium Benzoate, a Preservative
"3. An unfortunate side effect is that when mixed with ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) sodium benzoate transforms into benzene, a known carcinogen and DNA damager."

Germall plus

http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
diazolidinylurea
Also known as: DIAZOLIDINYL UREA, Germall II, Germall 11, Imidazolidinyl urea 11
Molecular Formula: C8H14N4O7   Molecular Weight: 278.21936


http://www.ewg.org/
About DIAZOLIDINYL UREA (FORMALDEHYDE RELEASER): Diazolidinyl urea is an antimicrobial preservative that works by forming formaldehyde in cosmetic products. People exposed to such formaldehyde-releasing ingredients may develop a formaldehyde allergy or an allergy to the ingredient itself. In the U.S. approximately 20% of cosmetics and personal care products contain a formaldehyde-releaser and the frequency of contact allergy to these ingredients is much higher among Americans compared to studies in Europe.


Preservatives!
A preservative is an ingredient we add to our creations to keep bacteria, yeast, and mold out of our water based body care products; they are considered anti-microbials.
An anti-oxidant protects oils and butters from rancidity... Anti-oxidants ARE NOT preservatives! They do not prevent bacteria, yeast, or mold from entering our creations.
grapefruit seed extract IS NOT a preservative.Liquid Germall Plus (Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) should be used at 0.1% to 0.5%. It is a liquid, and is added to the cool down phase of your lotion or surfactant creation. It is what's known as a broad spectrum antimicrobial preservative. I have chosen this one because it is readily available, it is used in smaller quantities, and it isn't super expensive. It is more stable than some of the other preservatives, and it can be used in just about anything, except for anhydrous (without water) products like sugar or salt scrubs (since Diazolidinyl urea is not soluble in oils, products that contain this ingredient should not be used in products that do not contain water.)


http://www.viviforyou.com/
Imidazolidinyl urea and DM hydantoine (Germall Plus, Germall II and Germal 115) - Two preservatives that have the loosening effect of formaldehyde. Renowned for causing eczema. After parabens, these are the most used preservatives. They are well established as a main cause of contact dermatitis (the American Academy of Dermatology). There are three commercial names for these chemical products: Germall II, Germal 115 and Germall Plus. None of them has a good antimycotic action and it must be combined with other preservatives. Germall 115 releases formaldehyde at a little more than 10°C. These chemical products are toxic.


AVOID!Germall Plus, Germall II and Germal 115
I encourage your own investigation into this matter. It's important for us all to stay up to date.


Preservatives: Choosing a preservative
We know the parabens like Phenonip, Liquipar PE, and Germaben II are partially deactivated by polysorbate 20, so we might want to choose something else (say Liquid Germall Plus or Optiphen).


Preservatives: Liquid Germall Plus
my preservative of choice is liquid Germall Plus. It contains propylene glycol (60%), diazolidinyl urea (39.6%), and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (0.6%). It's a broad spectrum liquid preservative that should be used at 0.1% to 0.5% in the cool down phase of your products. It's suitable for all but anhydrous products - the diazolidinyl urea is water soluble, so it's not suitable for all oil creations like scrubs or lotion bars.
It is a formaldehyde releaser, thanks to the diazolidinyl urea, but it is paraben free. It's suitable for all pH ranges we encounter in our products, but it isn't approved for aerosol use or oral use because of the IPBC. (This does not include misters like body sprays or toners, but pressurized aerosols). We use it in the cool down phase of our products as the diazolidinyl urea is not heat stable. Use it at 0.1% to 0.5% at temperatures lower than 50˚C.


The preservative wars
Formaldehyde donors, another class of preservative with a long history of use in cosmetics, have likewise attracted the ire of nongovernmental organizations and consumer advocacy groups. These compounds gradually release small amounts of formaldehyde into a product, killing bacteria and fungi. Given that formaldehyde is a well-known toxin, irritant, and carcinogen, it is perhaps understandable why people should object to its use in personal care products.
However, according to David Steinberg, a personal care product consultant at Steinberg & Associates, Inc., in Plainsboro, New Jersey, USA, the dose makes the poison. He recalls a discussion with a woman at a scientific meeting who was adamantly opposed to the use of formaldehyde donors in personal care products. “I asked her to take a deep breath and exhale, which she did,” says Steinberg. “I said, ‘Do you realize you just exhaled between five and ten parts per billion formaldehyde, which is what you want to ban? How are you still alive?’” He notes that cells produce formaldehyde during normal metabolic processes.


포르말린 원초적 물질이다. 천연에 존재, 소량은 전혀 피해없음
사과나 배 2~8, 양파 13, 새우2, 각종 훈제품 3~30, 특히 건표고버섯에는 100~230mg/kg , 인간의 혈중에도 약2.6mg/kg존재한다. 그 외에도 가솔린 연소시에도 700mg/1 정도 발생된다. 우리가 마시는 공기중에도 약7ppm정도의 포름알데히드가 들어있다. 포름알데히드계 수지 접착 목질계 재료로부터 방출이 많기는 하나, 그 외에도 폴리에스테르/면으로 만들어진 의류에서도 0.2~4.9, 면섬유0.8~3.9 유리섬유 1.0~2.3, 나일론 섬유 0~0.05 그리고 종이접시나 종이컵에서도  0.1~0.5㎍/g/일 정도 방출되고 있다. 이와 같이 인간의 일상생활과 항상 접하고 있는 포름알데히드는 대기중에서는 산화하여 개미산으로 되고 물과 탄산가스로 분해되며, 체내에 잔유되거나 축적성이 없어 발생원이 있어도 평형상태를 유지하며, 지속적으로 농도가 상승하지는 않는다.
폼알데하이드는 각종 어류와 육류에도 몇 십ppm 정도로, 채소 혹은 과일에는 대략 50 ppm까지 포함되어 있다. 우리가 흔히 먹는 사과, 양배추에서도 폼알데하이드를 검출할 수 있다. 폼알데하이드는 바다에서도 검출되는데, 플랑크톤, 해조류 등이 원인이다. 그러나 자연에서 발견되는 폼알데하이드는 햇볕이나 박테리아 등에 의해서 쉽게 분해된다. 인체의 혈액에도 약 3 ppm 정도의 폼알데하이드가 존재하지만 대사과정에서 쉽게 산화되고, 분해되어 몸에 축적되지는 않는다.


Preservatives

Antimicrobial Preservatives Part Two: Choosing a Preservative


Preservatives In Cosmetics – Natural vs Synthetic
An Example: Phenoxyethynol is created by treating phenol with ethylene oxide in an alkaline medium. Each ingredient individually does not sound great, but when they react it creates a safe and effective preservative. Individually many chemicals may harm you, but together they create a beneficial product. For instance, lye alone is extremely dangerous, but after it reacts with oil and water to create castile soap it is harmless and useful. The MSDS for a pure ingredient can cause undo alarm. But as you consider other ingredients that are widely used and safe in cosmetics you will find that the MSDS sounds alarming for them as well. For instance commonly used ingredients like glycolic acid, lye, citric acid, potassium sorbate and even essential oils have MSDS warnings that could be misunderstood and deemed as too dangerous to use in cosmetics. However, we all know that these ingredients are commonly used in cosmetics and some as natural preservatives. The MSDS sheet is designed to inform the end user of how to handle the ingredient properly in an undiluted form.


The Great Debate: Is There a Natural Preservative?
•Plant extracts can be effective
•Citric and malic acids are effective at higher concentrations
•Glycols derived from plants, not petroleum.
•Essential oils and tannins in herbal extracts make effective antimicrobials. These include spice oils such as tumeric oil, rosemary oil, oils from the family of mints and lavenders, and the essential oils of cinnamon, clove, oregano, thyme, pepper, sage, lemon balm, green tea, and Neem leaf extracts have been cited as effective ingredients, particularly when used as blends.
•Grain alcohol is a wonderful preservative. It works at low levels to kill most germs.
•In addition to using a preservative system, companies also try to reduce the amount of water in a formula.  Glycerin is one natural ingredient suggested to reduce the water and its activity.
•Adjusting the pH level of a formula is another way to prevent bacteria growth.  Products with a pH around the 6, 7, and 8 range tend to be more biologically active. If you formulate with a lower or higher pH, there is less bacteria growth.



Make Your Own Lotion: Preservatives


The preservative wars
  
Curbing microbial growth 
Although some factions clamor for “preservative-free” products, most formulators agree that some type of preservative is essential to curb the growth of microorganisms. Because cosmetics have plentiful water and nutrients, as well as a hospitable pH and temperature, products such as lotions, creams, and makeup are potential breeding grounds for microorganisms. Bacteria, yeasts, and molds may be introduced during the manufacture or packaging of a product, or by the consumer during normal use
Improperly preserved personal care products can cause skin irritation, infections, blindness, and even serious illness or death. In 2006, five intensive-care patients at a hospital in Barcelona, Spain, contracted life-threatening infections with the bacterium Burkholderia cepacia. Their illnesses were ultimately traced to a moisturizing body milk used in the patients’ care. Researchers detected the bacterium in unopened bottles of the body milk.
Preservatives help maintain product integrity by killing microorganisms. Most preservatives are active against a single type of microbe. For example, parabens are most effective at killing fungi (yeasts and molds), whereas formaldehyde donors (discussed below) target bacteria. “No single preservative is equally effective against all types of microorganisms,” says Philip Geis, principal consultant at Geis Microbiological Services in Gainesville, Florida, USA. “As a result, a mixture of preservatives is often used by formulators to ensure that a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity exists.


Avoid Smash Cosmetics Like the Plague - Health Hazard!!!


There are some that formulate the so called, 'all natural' skincare, such as creams, lotions and serums that are not emulsified with water or distillates, so they feel this allows them to have preservative free skincare products.  Although it is part true, it is still not a guarantee of safety!  So, if a skincare formulator makes the claim they don't use water or distillates, move on, because once you open a jar or bottle which allows humidity or the touching of damp fingers to enter the emulsion, whether it is body scrubs, body butters, face creams or masques, it is now contaminated and the multiplying of bacteria grows exponentially.  It only takes a trace amount of water to begin the growth process and it won't matter their claim.