Petrolatum

The Truth About Petrolatum

Petrolatum clogs the pores:  FALSE.
Nope, not the case. In fact, petrolatum has been affirmed to be non-comedogenic and to not cause allergic reactions (American Academy of Dermatology Invitational on Comedogenicity, 1989).
The greasy, oily feeling of petrolatum leads consumers to believe that petrolatum makes them break out, yet what actually can actually cause break outs is what is used in conjunction with petrolatum. Because petrolatum traps moisture and water-based ingredients under the skin, it can essentially “trap” non-comedogenic ingredients used together with petrolatum under there, causing stronger reactions (Allergy, 2004). Be sure to avoid ingredients like lanolin, coconut oil, squalene, mineral oil, and isopropyl myristate when using petrolatum (Cosmetic Dermatology, 2002).

Benzyl Benzoate - No

Benzyl Benzoate

What is it:
Benzyl benzoate is a synthetic chemical used as a fragrance ingredient, artificial flavor, preservative, and solvent.  It is also considered an over the counter drug and can be used as a scabies or lice treatment.  It is an ester of benzyl alcohol and benzoic acid. 

What are it's risks:
Benzyl benzoate has been found to posess weakly estrogenic properties and have weak stimulating action upon the growth of breast cancer cells in One Study. However, This Study found benzyl benzoate not to display this activity at the concentration tested.
Listed as a suspected allergen by the EU Cosmetics Directive. (Source)
From Drugs.Com, the side effects of medical-strength benzyl benzoate are:
Blister formation, crusting, itching, oozing, reddening, or scaling of skin
difficulty in urinating (dribbling)
jerking movements
sudden loss of consciousness
burning or itching of skin
         These side effects are usually only seen at high doses and concentrations, however, damaged skin or    impaired immune function may make certain individuals more suseptible to reactions.
Brands that use benzyl benzoate include: Jason, The Body Shop, Origins, Weleda, Dermalogica & Zia. 

Steph's Opinion:
I would classify the estrogen-mimicking properties of benzyl benzoate as potential, but not confirmed.  As a person who seeks to avoid xenoestrogens (chemicals that mimic estrogen in the body) I, as a precautionary measure, avoid benzyl benzoate as well.


Benzyl benzoate is a component of cinnamon essential oil

Benzyl Alcohol

Benzyl Alcohol (aka Phenylcarbinol)

What is it?
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol used as a preservative, as the active ingredient in head lice treatment, and as a solvent.  It is most often created by combining benzyl chloride (a suspected carcinogen that has been used as a war gas) with sodium hydroxide (lye).  Sometimes it is created by reacting Phenylmagnesium Bromide (C6H5MgBr) with Formaldehyde.
Benzyl alcohol also does naturally occur in green and other teas, and some essential oils including ylang ylang and jasmine.  

Is it a risk?
Benzyl Alcohol can act as a skin sensitizer in some people, and, according to a 1998 study can "can instigate immune system response that can include itching, burning, scaling, hives, and blistering of skin" at certain concentrations.It is a common skin contact allergen. (Source)High concentrations can induce asthma and bronchitis in some individuals. (Source)Benzyl alcohol was formerly used in neonatal care as a preservative in intravenous drips, however, infants started getting benzyl alcohol poisoning (with numerous fatalities), and it has now been discontinued in this use. (Source) Can react with titanium dioxide to form aldehydes, including formaldehyde. (Source)When high concentrations of benzyl alcohol were injected in to cows uteruses, it shortened their estrus cycle. (Source) However, it is unknown if or how benzyl alcohol reacts with the human reproductive system.  

Steph's Opinion:
Should you avoid products containing ylang ylang or jasmine essential oils?  Benzyl alcohol is a component of these essential oils, but it is a minor constituent of these essential oils.  Toxic reactions and allergies to benzyl alcohol usually occur when the isolated chemical is used in a higher concentration as a preservative (1-5% of the formulation.) A product containing one of these essential oils may contain .5% of the essential oil, 1% of which may be benzyl alcohol, so the total concentration of benzyl alcohol would be .005%. If you were a person that has a history of being allergic to benzyl alcohol, then you may want to avoid these two essential oils just to be safe.  However, if not, this is not a large enough concentration to be concerned with for the general population. Jasmine and Ylang Ylang have a history of not causing sensitization, irritation, or toxicity when used properly.   

I purchased Saline Nasal Spray because it was recommended by a doctor a few months ago when I had a sinus infection. I liked the way it moisturized, since I live in the desert, so I recently picked up a bottle of store brand spray. I keep smelling formaldehyde; Now I know why. It contains Phenylcarbinol & Benzalkonium Chloride "as preservatives." I entered Phenylcarbinol into the Skin Deep Database & your database, and Benzyl Alcohol comes up each time. I'm so pleased to learn I've been sticking this up my nose! (sarcasm) Is there a safer alternative to achieve the same results as the nasal spray? I've heard a little about a Netti Pot. There are several choices as the drug store, but I don't know what to look for in the packets. Will I need to buy distilled water? Should this stuff be avoided all together?

I am a medicinal chemist with 25 years of experience in pharmaceutical chemistry. Medicinal chemists work with these drugs every single day. You won't find better experts anywhere. It is true that benzyl alcohol, just like any other chemical, is not innocuous, but just like evrything else, it's how much you use that matters. The Worls Health Organization (WHO) has set safe limits for intravenous benzyl alcohol at 5mg/kg. That a quarter of one gram for a 120-pound human. That is a lot of benzyl alcohol, and it is by intravenous injection. So you can see that the small amount in your cosmetic product is not likely to harm you.

Ive found that nasal sprays containing benzyl Alcohol cause me to experience burning in my nostrils and down my throat, and shortly after i use them oftentimes a headache and flushing. Ones without B.A. do not cause this.

La Roche-Posay Anthelios Dry-touch Spray SPF 45

200ml $32.5  

ANTHELIOS DRY-TOUCH SPRAY SPF 45 
FAST ABSORBING, ULTRA LIGHT FINISH.
FRAGANCE-FREE. PARABEN-FREE.
WATER-RESISTANT.
Broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection.  

Ingredients 
Active Ingredients: Octisalate 5%, Avobenzone 4%, Octocrylene 3.5%, Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S) 3%, Titanium Dioxide 2.6%, Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 1.5%, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 1%. 

Other Ingredients: Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diamine/Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Triethanolamine, Acrylates Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Pentasodium Ethylenediamine Tetramethylene Phosphonate

The Body Shop POMEGRANATE FIRMING DAY LOTION SPF15

POMEGRANATE FIRMING DAY LOTION SPF15

50ml $20
FULL INGREDIENTS
Aqua (Solvent/Diluent), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Sunscreen), Isododecane (Solvent), Hydrogenated Polydecene (Skin Conditioning Agent), Octyl Salicylate (Sunscreen), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Sunscreen), Glycerin (Humectant), Arachidyl Alcohol (Emulsion Stabiliser), Glyceryl Stearate (Emulsifier), Caprylyl Glycol (Skin Conditioning Agent), Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient), Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethylcarbamoylpropyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Opacifying Agent), Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil (Emollient), Arachidyl Glucoside (Surfactant/Emulsifying Agent), Caffeine (Skin Conditioning Agent), Cetyl Alcohol (Emulsifier), PEG-100 Stearate (Surfactant), Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer (Binder), Parfum (Fragrance), Punica Granatum Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning Agent - Emollient), Butylene Glycol (Humectant), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Modifier), Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning Agent), Polyisobutene (Binder), Punica Granatum Extract (Natural Additive), Disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent), Sorbic Acid (Preservative), Adenosine (Skin-Conditioning Agent), Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifier), Sorbitan Isostearate (Emulsifier), Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract (Natural Additive), Hydroxycitronellal (Fragrance Ingredient), Citronellol (Fragrance Ingredient), Limonene (Fragrance Ingredient), Geraniol (Fragrance Ingredient), Linalool (Fragrance Ingredient), Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone (Fragrance Ingredient), Ursolic Acid (Fragrance Ingredient).

THE BODY SHOP POMEGRANATE SPF 15 octinoxate, octisalate, avobenzone lotion

Active Ingredients:
Avobenzone (3.0%)
Octinoxate(7.5%)
Octisalate (4.0%) 

Sunscreen
Uses  Helps prevent sunburn
Warnings For External Use only
Do not use  on damaged or broken skin
When using this product   Keep out of eyes. Rinse with water to remove. 

Badger SPF30 Unscented Sunscreen Cream

ORGANIC SUNSCREEN BASE WITH ZINC OXIDE

Active Sunscreen Ingredient:
Non-Nano, Uncoated Zinc Oxide 18.75%

Inactive Sunscreen Ingredients:
*Helianthus Annus (Organic Sunflower) Oil, *Cera Alba (Organic Beeswax), Tocopherol (Sunflower Vitamin E), and CO2 Extract of *Hippophae Rhamnoides (Organic Seabuckthorn).

* = Certified Organic
100% Certified Natural by NPA
98% Certified Organic by NSF

UVA and UVB

Understanding UVA and UVB

UVA 

Most of us are exposed to large amounts of UVA throughout our lifetime. UVA rays account for up to 95 percent of the UV radiation reaching the Earth's surface. Although they are less intense than UVB, UVA rays are 30 to 50 times more prevalent. They are present with relatively equal intensity during all daylight hours throughout the year, and can penetrate clouds and glass. 

UVA, which penetrates the skin more deeply than UVB, has long been known to play a major part in skin aging and wrinkling (photoaging), but until recently scientists believed it did not cause significant damage in areas of the epidermis (outermost skin layer) where most skin cancers occur. Studies over the past two decades, however, show that UVA damages skin cells called keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, where most skin cancers occur. (Basal and squamous cells are types of keratinocytes.) UVA contributes to and may even initiate the development of skin cancers.

UVB 

UVB, the chief cause of skin reddening and sunburn, tends to damage the skin's more superficial epidermal layers. It plays a key role in the development of skin cancer and a contributory role in tanning and photoaging. Its intensity varies by season, location, and time of day. The most significant amount of UVB hits the U.S. between 10 AM and 4 PM from April to October. However, UVB rays can burn and damage your skin year-round, especially at high altitudes and on reflective surfaces such as snow or ice, which bounce back up to 80 percent of the rays so that they hit the skin twice. UVB rays do not significantly penetrate glass.  

Sun Protection Factors (SPF) and UV radiation 

Since the advent of modern sunscreens, a sunscreen's efficacy has been measured by its sun protection factor, or SPF. SPF is not an amount of protection per se. Rather, it indicates how long it will take for UVB rays to redden skin when using a sunscreen, compared to how long skin would take to redden without the product. For instance, someone using a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 will take 15 times longer to redden than without the sunscreen. An SPF 15 sunscreen screens 93 percent of the sun's UVB rays; SPF 30 protects against 97 percent; and SPF 50, 98 percent. The Skin Cancer Foundation maintains that SPFs of 15 or higher are necessary for adequate protection. 

FDA-Approved Sunscreens
Active Ingredient/UV Filter Name	Range Covered
	UVA1: 340-400 nm
	UVA2: 320-340 nm
	UVB: 290-320 nm
Chemical Absorbers:
Aminobenzoic acid (PABA)	UVB
Avobenzone	UVA1
Cinoxate	UVB
Dioxybenzone	UVB, UVA2
Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX)	UVA2
Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimiazole Sulfonic Acid)	UVB
Homosalate	UVB
Meradimate (Menthyl Anthranilate)	UVA2
Octocrylene	UVB
Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate)	UVB
Octisalate ( Octyl Salicylate)	UVB
Oxybenzone	UVB, UVA2
Padimate O	UVB
Sulisobenzone	UVB, UVA2
Trolamine Salicylate	UVB
Physical Filters:
Titanium Dioxide	UVB, UVA2
Zinc Oxide	UVB,UVA2, UVA1

Physical:  zinc oxide,  titanium dioxide,  

Chemical:  avobenzone (Parsol, Eusolex, Escalol),  bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone),  benzophenone-4 (Sulisobenzone),  ecamsule (Mexoryl SX),  phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole),  homosalate,  octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate),  octyl salicylate (octisalate),  octocrylene 

Hybrid:  bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M) 

UVB blockers:  phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole),  homosalate,  octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate),  octyl salicylate (octisalate),  benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone),  benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone) 

UVA blockers:  avobenzone (Parsol, Eusolex, Escalol),  ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), 

UVA+UVB blockers:  zinc oxide,  titanium dioxide,  bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M), bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S),  octocrylene

Natural Oils for Sunscreen

Carrier Oils and SPF

Carrier Oil /SPF
Red Raspberry Seed/28 - 50
Carrot Seed Oil/38 - 40
Wheatgerm/20
Soybean/10
Macadamia Nut/6
Jojoba/4
Sesame Seed Oil/2 - 4
Shea Butter/3 - 6
Coconut/2 - 8
Olive/2 - 8
Avocado (unrefined)/4 - 15
Castor Oil /6
Almond Oil/5

The Best Natural Oils for Sunscreen

Red Raspberry Seed Oil – SPF 28 – 50
This one is one of the most popular oils for SPF and can have a range of 28 – 50 (depending on the oil’s quality). Red raspberry oil is actually close to equivalent of the protection you would receive from Titanium Dioxide, found in most mineral sunscreens. The essential fatty acids and host of antioxidants in this oil are also great for other skin healing purposes including eczema and psoriasis. Red Raspberry Seed Oil protects against UVA & UVB rays.

Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus idaeus L.) seed oil

Carrot Seed Oil – SPF 38 – 40
Carrot oil, which doubles as an antispetic is said to contain a high SPF factor when diluted with a carrier oil. According to a study published in “Pharmacognosy Magazine” in 2009, products containing carrot seed oil have a natural SPF of between 38 and 40. 

Wheatgerm Oil – SPF 20
Wheatgerm is packed with vitamins and minerals – namely Vitamin E, K & B – so it also acts as free radical preventer while it protects you from the sun. 

Other Oils with SPF 10 or Less

There are a host of other oils with lesser SPF factors, but may be adequate for some more bronzed babes.

Macadamia Oil – SPF 6
Non-GMO Soybean Oil – SPF 10
Avocado Oil – 4 – 10 (can get as high as 15)
Olive Oil  - 2-8
Shea Butter – 3 – 6
Almond Oil – SPF 5
Sesame Seed Oil – SPF 4
Hemp Seed Oil – SPF 6
Jojoba Oil – SPF 4
Coconut Oil – SPF 2 – 8 

Use Caution When Using Natural Oils for Sunscreen

Since not all oils are created equal, the SPF can vary when it is on your skin. Determining the exact SPF factor of an oil is difficult, espeically given that natural oils oxidize (lose some of their medicinal properties) over time and when exposed to light. Ensure that you are purchasing your oils from a recommended source and always do your research.

Another note about UVA & UVB rays: Aside from Red Raspberry Seed Oil,most plant oils protect only against UVB rays. Use caution or mix with a non-nano sized zinc oxide formula (non-nano meaning it doesn’t absorb into your skin).

Natural Oils as Sun Protection

Wheatgerm Oil – Wheatgerm is one of the best sources of natural vitamin E and is also a good source of vitamin K, B vitamins and choline. When applied to the skin, wheatgerm oil helps to moisturize tissues and acts as an antioxidant to prevent free radical damage. Wheatgerm oil has a natural SPF rating of 20. 

Rice Bran Oil - Rice bran oil contains gamma oryzanol, a naturally occurring plant byproduct. The chemicals in gamma oryzanol suppress the rising melanin levels thereby blocking the transmittance of ultraviolet rays through the surface of the skin. This process whitens the skin a slight amount and has historically been used in Japanese culture to produce a glowing complexion. It has an SPF of 2-4. 

Another tip for getting the most protection while out in the sun… DO NOT BATHE before going outside of an extended period of time. What we are doing to our skin by washing off natural oils is causing it to be more susceptible to the sun’s rays. We are leaving our largest organ with no protective barrier. Human sebum has a natural SPF of 6-8. Why would you want to wash that off? In addition, try not to bathe immediately after coming in from a day in the sun. Your body needs time to finish processing the Vitamin D and UVA/UVB rays. Try to wait at least an hour before showering.

Natural sunscreen

Natural Sunscreen Using Essential Oils

Another amazing essential oil that has ancient historical backing to it’s efficiency in preventing sunburn is Myrrh oil.  Ancient Egyptians used this oil exclusivley to prevent sunburn.  The essential oil myrrh comes from a thorny shrub in Somalia and Arabia and has been used since the time of Hippocrates—the father of Western medicine. It is widely known for its healing ability. Myrrh can be used to treat the dry, scaly skin associated with excessive sun exposure, according to “The Guide to Remedies: Homeopathy, Essential Oils, Crystals and Home Remedies.”

LAVENDER VS MYRRH FOR SUNSCREEN PROTECTION

Helichrysum oil has also been extensively researched and found to be a very effective natural sunscreen.  The added benefit of using both Myrrh and Helichrysum essential oils, as well as the other natural sources listed above is that they can also help to repair sun damage to skin cells after excessive sun exposure, so not only are these great sunscreens but they are great after sun lotions as well.

is the sunscreen lotion recipe more waterproof since it has beeswax in it? - Yes

Potassium Sorbate

Potassium Sorbate

Potassium sorbate is the salt of sorbic acid (natural fatty acid). In water potassium sorbate releases sorbic acid which is the active agent.
Appearance: White, fine granules, Slight sweet odor. Easily soluble in cold water.
It is a very effective preservative active against molds, yeast and aerophile bacteria in a wide pH range of 2-6.5 and for extended periods of time.
Typical concentration 0.15-0.3% (if used alone) or 0.1-0.2% (if used in combination with other preservatives).
It is  used to preserve all kinds of cosmetic products like creams, lotions, shampoos, makeup & sunscreen products. Potassium Sorbate is a mild preservative. Its primary use is as a food preservative.
Potassium sorbate is used to inhibit molds, and yeasts in many foods, such as cheese, wine, yogurt, dried meats, and baked goods. It can also be found in the ingredients list of many dried fruit products. In addition, herbal dietary supplement products generally contain potassium sorbate, which acts to prevent mold and microbes and to increase shelf life, and is used in such tiny quantities that there are no known adverse health effects.
It is used in many personal care products to inhibit the development of microorganisms for shelf stability. Some manufacturers are using this preservative as a replacement for parabens.
Potassium sorbate is the potassium salt of sorbic acid. It is made by reacting sorbic acid with potassium hydroxide.
It is effective up to pH 6.5 but effectiveness increases as the pH decreases. The lower the pH value of the product the lower amount of Sorbic Acid or Potassium Sorbate is needed for preservation.
Potassium Sorbate is considered a gentle preservative that is safe and mild because of its long term safety record and non-toxic profile. Potassium sorbate is non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Allergic reactions are rare.
Potassium Sorbate is water soluble and can be used effectively in both lotions and water-based liquid soap and shampoo formulations. Although the minimum inhibatory concentration for many fungi and bacteria is approx. 100 ppm, common usage levels range from 0.5 - 1.0%.
Dissolve K sorbate in your water phase at the beginning, to ensure proper dispersion of the product.

Bergamot

Bergamot Tea Safety

Side Effects
Drugs.com reports that Early Grey tea can cause a loss in potassium, muscle cramps, blurred vision, twitching, fasciculations and paresthesias. This is related to a component of bergamot oil called bergapten.

TOO MUCH EARL GREY CAUSES PROBLEMS

Bergamot oil contains bergapten (5-methoxypsoralen), bergamottin (5-geranyloxypsoralen), and citropten (5,7-dimethoxycoumarin). It is a well known UVA-induced photosensitiser (making the skin abnormally sensitive to sunlight), has a toxic effect on the liver and can also cause contact allergy. The side effects observed in this case can be explained by bergapten, which has effects on electrical conduction in membranes of peripheral nerves (it is a largely selective axolemmal potassium channel blocker and reduces potassium permeability at the nodes of Ranvier). The resulting hyperexcitability of the nerve axon membrane and timing alterations of nerve potassium currents can cause the twitching and muscle cramps.

Biguanide 20

Biguanide 20  

CAS No. 27083-27-8
Biguanide 20, also known as Polyaminopropyl Biguanide (PABG), is a broad spectrum, fast acting bactericide. It is provided by the manufacturer as a 20% solution in water.  A 20% aqueous solution of poly(hexamethylenebiguanide) hydrochloride, also known as PHMB, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, used at an appropriate usage level (of 0.2 - 1.5%) is an effective preservative for make-up removers, moisturizing toners, facial cleansers, wet wipes and also offers antibacterial and deodorant properties. Originally formulated for the contact lens industry, it is also typically used in baby wipes. It is gentle in-use, with low eye and skin irritancy and low oral toxicity.
Biguanide 20 is an effective non-formaldehyde, non-paraben preservative with no VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) which is heat and UV stable. It is effective over a broad pH range (4-10), but most effective at a pH of 6.0 or less. As it is cationic, it is compatible with cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. It is incompatible with strongly anionic systems.
Biguanide 20 is incompatible with natural liquid soaps and beeswax/borax emulsions. It is more compatible with cationic emulsifiers like Lotioncrafter BTMS. Polyaminopropyl Biguanide is not compatible with Xanthan Gum.
Biguanide 20 is heat stable to at least 80°C (176°F) and can be added pre or post emulsification. For complex formulations, consider combining with another preservative for a broader spectrum of activity or potassium sorbate for increased antifungal/mold protection.**
Recommended usage level: 0.2 - 1.5%.
Appearance: Clear to slightly pale yellow, slightly opalescent liquid.
pH: 5.0 - 5.5
Specific Gravity: 1.04
Solubility: Soluble in water. Miscible with ethanol, glycerin, and propylene glycol.

INCI: Polyaminopropyl Biguanide

Polyaminopropyl Biguanide

Although a synthetic ingredient, it is not a terribly dangerous one.  It is not known to be mutagenic on mamilian cells, not an endocrine disruptor, not carcinogenic, and has a low toxicity.  It is not easily absorbed in to skin, and pretty mild on skin and eyes.  One fact that gives me pause is the way in which it works--by breaking the cell wall of the bacteria and damaging its DNA.  Anything that damages DNA doesn't sound very good to me.  However, the studies that have been done on the ingredient have shown that it's not strong enough to break down mamilian cells--so that's a good thing.  The bottom line: although it's not a natural ingredient that I would personally use, if you have to use it (say, in your contact solution) you can breathe a little sigh of relief that it's a safer ingredient. 

Cosmocil CQ

Cosmocil CQ is a really novel preservative, relying upon polyhexamethylene biguanide (PHMB) as the preservative, which is neither a formaldehyde releaser nor a paraben based product. The INCI is polyaminopropyl biguanide. It's both a bacteriostatic and bactericidal preservative that should be combined with a fungicide like one of the parabens, potassium sorbate, or sodium benzoate (one of the organic acids).

It's cationic and the manufacturer notes it is incompatible with what they call strongly anionic systems, so I'd be careful using it with shampoo, body wash, and other foamy surfactant mixes. It is effective for pH 4 to 10, so you can use it with pretty much any product we make, with the ideal being below 6. It's soluble in water, ethanol, glycerin, and propylene glycol but insoluble in vegetable and mineral oils and esters, so you'll want to use in products that contain water. You can use it in your creations in the water phase while you heat it or add it just before emulsification. (One data sheet says it's heat stable to 140˚C, but when do we ever reach those temperatures? So I'm going with the stable to 80˚C suggestion.) The most frequent suggestion is that we should add it to the water phase before heating.
Summary of Cosmocil CQ
INCI: Polyaminopropyl biguanide
Usage: From 0.05% to 1.5%. Approved at up to 1.5% in the EU and 0.5% in Japan.
Not suitable for anhydrous products. Add in the heated water phase of your products pre- or post-emulsification.
Suitable for products with pH 4 to 10.

I tried Cosmocil at .7%, with .14% potassium sorbate and .115% citric acid, as per one suggested use in this pdf, but my formulation didn't hold up for even a couple of weeks. I didn't realise it had to be used in the heated phase though, so maybe that was a factor. I tried it again at 1% with .2% potassium sorbate in a deodorant, and so far (a few weeks in), it's holding up much better.

I've used since May w/ max plus k sorbate max. In addition 1% lavender essential oil, 4% ethanol. Dunno if it would be as good w/o the extras though, but so far, clean as a whistle in my normal usage- jar w/ fingers daily in it. I have 3 very close friends using lotion with same formulation in pump bottle last 9 wks also. Good feedback so far. No fur, smell, or any other funkiness. OH!! it was 65% oil phase too! So can't say w/ more water phase. Gonna formulate with 75% water phase. Gonna push it to it's max with etracts, aloe, and hydrosols!!!!!!!!!! Will see next few weeks if it can tolerate all the fresh bug food!

Beware Cosmocil CQ

According to http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Chemical.jsp?Rec_Id=PC33978
Cosmocil CQ is a "possible" carcinogen.
I kid you not. It is there.
And here's more from a typical MSDS for this pretender:
"Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, the biocidal active in this product, has been extensively studied for its toxicity to mammalian systems. Repeated inhalation exposure in rats over a period of 4 weeks resulted in eye and respiratory irritation and pneumonitis. Long term feeding studies in dogs show that the liver and kidney are target organs and the effect occur but only at very high doses. Polyaminopropyl Biguanide has been shown in animal studies to produce skin sensitization." 

Essential oil caution

Toxic and Phototoxic Essential Oils

Phototoxic Essential Oils 

angelica root
bergamot (unless it's specified as "bergaptene-free")
cassia
cumin
ginger
lemon
lime (just the cold expressed oil, not the steam distilled)
lovage
mandarin (possibly)
orange (unless it's a "folded" orange - luckily, most are)
verbena 

Toxic Essential Oils - Use With Cautionanise (star) 

aniseed
bay laurel
bay (West Indian)
calamintha
camphor (white)
cassia
cedarwood (Virginian)
cinnamon (leaf)
clove (bud)
coriander
eucalyptus
fennel (sweet)
hops
hyssop
juniper
nutmeg
parsley
pepper (black)
sage (Spanish)
tagetes
tarragon
thyme (white)
turmeric
valerian

Sun sensitivity (phototoxicity) and essential oils.Essential oils that may cause sun sensitivity: sun 

sensitivity essential oils phototoxicity of essential oils 

Angelica
Bergamot *
Bitter orange (cold pressed)
Cumin
Dill
Grapefruit (cold pressed)
Lemon (cold pressed as well as distilled)
Lemon verbena
Lime (cold pressed as well as distilled)
Orange
Mandarin
Tagetes
Tangerine (cold pressed)
Yuzu
* Unless it is bergaptene-free oil - sold as Bergamot FCF.

Tinosan SDC

Tinosan, aka Silverion 2400, aka, Silver Citrate

Silver Citrate is a preservative that's marketed as a "natural" alternative. Silver works by breaking down the cell membrane of the bacterium and denaturing the enzymes within, thus killing the cell.  Silver citrate is a the salt of silver and citric acid, where silver exists in its ionic form.  Silver citrate in the presence of citric acid (which, when sold as this preservative it's a blend of citric acid and silver citrate) is soluble in water. 

Silver ions, as found in Silver Citrate are extremely potent anti-microbial agents.  The problem is that silver ions cannot distinguish between "good" cells and "bad" cells.

Dissolved ionic silver is the most biologically active form of silver, is highly toxic to all living cells and bioaccumulative.
Downstream it sticks to fish gills, keeping them from breathing.
Contributes to antibiotic resistance.
Silver ions were found to accumulate of the brains and testes of the mammals (mice) studied.

Synthesis and antimicrobial activity of silver citrate complexes

Abstract
Formation of silver citrate/citric acid complexed solutions was investigated. Although, silver citrate is minimally soluble in water, it can successfully be dissolved in citric acid solutions...the diluted silver citrate/citric acid complexed solutions have exhibited very strong bacteriostatic and bactericidal activities.

Since this preservative contains silver, could it potentially cause Argyria?

When exposed to the skin it does not turn the skin black. I have applied it full strength to my skin and have even drank a small quantity of it. Being an RN and with years of ER and ICU experience I understand the dangers associated with silver poisoning, which is not possible with this product. It is a silver salt of citric acid and can't cause silver poisoning like colloidal silver. When it is absorbed into the skin it immediately becomes inert because it binds with the free sodium in our bodies and on our skin. It is then excreted out through the kidneys. Remember it is used at 0.1-0.3% so the amount absorbed even if you used a whole bottle of a product would be very tiny and it becomes inert upon contact with sodium. This is why it can be less effective in products with a really high salt content.
Silver is used by the medical profession and has been for years. It is instilled in newborns eyes to prevent gonorrhea and foley catheters are impregnated with it to prevent migration of germs and bacteria up the catheter and into the bladder which is sterile. We also use silver nitrate to cauterize nose bleeds. All of these are examples of silver being used in an effective and safe manner. Ingestion of colloidal silver is and has been controversial for a long time and has lead to heavy metal poisoning. These are not the same silver molecules and behave very differently in the body.

Geogard Ultra

Geogard Ultra – Preservative

The positive aspects of Geogard Ultra include:
Multi-functionality (effective in a wide variety of cosmetic products, including shampoos, lotions and skin creams)
Broad spectrum (creates an overall hostile environment for varying types of microbes within a formulation)
Globally accepted (beyond Europe and Japan, Geogard is also viewed as safe by the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association in North America as well as regulatory bodies in Latin and South America).
Laboratory tests show that Geogard improves skin moisture content
Listed as a GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) ingredient
Broad compatibility with other widely used cosmetic ingredients
Developed without reliance on animal testing
Contains no GMO’s

One of the ingredients used to manufacture Geogard Ultra is sodium benzoate...sodium benzoate and Vitamin C together create a chemical known as Benzene.  Benzene is, without question, carcinogenic.  Furthermore, Benzene fed to mice causes mitochondrial degeneration, which is viewed as one of the primary causes of aging and cell death...Sodium Benzoate on its own (not combined with Vitamin C) is in no way considered carcinogenic.

Geogard preservative information

there are very few truly natural or ‘more natural’ preservatives that have been challenge tested and shown that they are truly broad spectrum preservatives (many like some essential oils can kill bacteria but they are not broad spectrum). Geogard is one of them, another is leucidal. Both are pretty new to the market (Geogard has only been available within the last few years. Leucidal is very new, only started seeing that a few months ago). I will be using leucidal in another toner probably (I need to test it for longer to see if I like it as much as geogard or not).

Phenoxyethanol

Preservatives - Natural alternatives to phenoxyethanol and parabens

I work at an alternative/natural health clinic. A few years ago I was privileged to be tested for DNA adducts, which are things, (like chemicals for example), that have attached to the DNA in your cells. DNA provides the instructions that tell a cell how to grow and divide. Many scientists believe that cancer can result when DNA becomes altered and gives faulty or missing instructions. You do not want altered or mutated DNA!!!! Well, guess what was among the adducts I had? PHENOXYETHANOL! I had never even heard of it. Then I was dismayed to find it everywhere in cosmetics, especially the "natural" ones. I threw out everything including expensive products from that one celebrity M.D. dermatologist whom we all know, as well as those promoted by the supermodel & French doctor. I avoid this chemical now like the plague. I do not want anything adducted or attached to my DNA. 

Phenoxyethanol

What is it:
Phenoxyethanol is an aromatic ether alcohol. What does this mean? This ingredient starts out as phenol, a toxic white crystalline powder that's created from benzene (a known carcinogen) and then is treated with ethylene oxide (also a known carcinogen) and an alkalai. 

What's its job as an ingredient:
Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in the ingredient listed as "fragrance" and also used as a preservative. 

OMG, don't we just like to panic!!! Phenoxyethanol is one of the very few safest broad spectrum preservatives that is used at 0.5% concentration to protect YOU from the mold, that would grow in your product within 3 weeks of production. Particularly products containing water. And I am not counting shelf life here at all - from production it is. The mold and bacteria is much more harmful for our bodies then this minuscule amount of preservative. So here it goes, parabens are bad, phenoxyethanol is bad, then what is good? Mold? Some of you that's so paranoid perhaps should stick with use of Olive oil alone.

Potentially Harmful Ingredients

Phenoxyethanol
is a preservative that is primarily used in cosmetics and medications
can depress the central nervous system
may cause vomiting and diarrhea, which can lead to dehydration in infants

Phenethyl Alcohol

Phenethyl Alcohol

Phenethyl Alcohol is a colorless, transparent, slightly viscous liquid. In cosmetics and personal care products, Phenethyl Alcohol is used in the formulation of eye area makeup, makeup products, skin care products, shampoos and perfumes and colognes.

Phenethyl Alcohol prevents or retards bacterial growth, and thus protects cosmetics and personal care products from spoilage. Phenethyl Alcohol also imparts a fragrance to a product.

"Nature-identical" Phenethyl Alcohol 

“Nature-identical” phenethyl alcohol was used to create schülke's sensiva® PA 20 (INCI: Phenethyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin). Phenethyl alcohol occurs widely in nature and can be found in many essential oils, including rose, carnation, hyacinth and others. It is used as a fragrance component and has a mild rose odor. It also has properties that make it an excellent choice to help maintain the microbiological stability of personal care formulas. This activity is boosted in sensiva® PA 20 by pairing phenethyl alcohol with ethylhexylglycerin. Ethylhexylglycerin is similar to a class of chemicals that occur naturally in the liver of certain sea creatures. Being synthetically derived, ethylhexylglycerin maintains all of the beneficial preservative-boosting and moisturizing properties of these materials, without harming any living creatures.

Clary sage

Is Clary Sage Esrogenic?

This does not mean that clary sage oil is not effective. It may well be useful in relieving menstrual pain, pre-menstrual symptoms, menopausal symptoms and other problems, but none of this necessitates an estrogen-like action. And, I’m not saying that sclareol could not possibly be estrogen-like, I’m just saying there’s no evidence that it is, nor does its structure suggest such an effect. This also means that there’s no evidence to support clary sage oil “balancing hormones”, mimicking estrogens only if there is an estrogen deficiency, or stimulating the body to produce natural estrogens.

Natural Preservatives

Preservatives commonly found in natural skin care products

Ethyl Alcohol

Ehtyl alcohol or ethanol - usually referenced on cosmetic ingredient lists as 'alcohol' or 'alcohol denat*' - works as a preservative when present in concentrations of 10-30%.

When used in these high proportions it can dry the skin and strip away natural oils. It is unsuitable for people with sensitive skin or Rosacea sufferers.

Alcohol is sometimes used in addition to other synthetic preservatives as it is a good fragrance fixative (helps to prevent aromas degrading over time).

Natural skin care companies sometimes claim their alcohol is different because it is derived from natural plant sources (e.g. grain or sugar).

Natural alcohol performs in the same as any other form of ethyl alcohol and is no kinder on the skin. *denat. is an abbreviation of the term 'denatured' which means something has been added to the ethyl alcohol to make it undrinkable.

Common additives include methanol, isopropyl alcohol and acetone.

Ethyl alcohols are not to be confused with fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol.

These have the opposite skin moisturising effect and are used as emulsifiers in cosmetic creams.

Further reading:

truthinaging.com/ingredient-spotlight/alcohol-in-cosmetics-is-it-safe

blog.paiskincare.com/2010/02/do-you-avoid-alcohol-in-your-skin-care.html 

personalcaretruth.com/2010/12/alcohol-free/ 

Benzyl Alcohol

Considered a skin and eye irritant and has been linked to Contact Dermatitis and Urticaria. It is thought to be safe in concentrations of 1% or less.

If you have sensitive skin, we would suggest patch testing (applying the product containing it to a small patch of skin, such as your inner elbow) to ensure you can tolerate it.

Further reading:

colinsbeautypages.co.uk/benzyl-alcohol/ 

chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/todays-chemical/2009/7/22/benzyl-alcohol.html 

Japanese Honeysuckle (listed as Lonicera Japonica)

This is a synthetic preservative that is often described as a "natural paraben" due to the active ingredient: Para Hydroxybenzoic Acid.

In terms of skin sensitivity, we have not seen any data (positive or negative) to suggest it is an irritant. If it works like other parabens, then it is likely to be non-irritating to most people.

Despite the innocuous name, this is a synthetic compound about which there is a great deal of controversy.

Further reading:

personalcaretruth.com/2010/07/honeysuckle-extract-the-new-paraben-debate/

www.personalcaremagazine.com/Story.aspx?Story=488 

chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/most-controversial/2010/5/8/the-final-word-on-japanese-honeysuckle-extract.html

Parabens – Butyl, Ethyl, Propyl, Isopropyl, Methyl, Benzyl

The debate rages on about these preservatives. Recent studies have raised concerns over the gradual build-up of these chemicals in the body and linked them to hormone disruption and cancer. 

However, these studies are not universally accepted, and there is a mainstream scientific consensus that on the whole parabens are safe and non-irritating.

This is to massively simplify a complex scientific question, and indeed there are several different parabens with their own individual benefits and issues.

There are no studies that we know of that demonstrate or disprove the paraben-cancer link over the long term (i.e. over 15 years).

Indeed it is almost impossible (or at least very costly) to do such a study to find out the long term effects of a particular cosmetic ingredient.

If parabens did increase the chances of developing cancers from sustained use of cosmetics over a lifetime, it would take a very long time to prove or disprove the link - literally a lifetime!

There are however studies that are considered to specifically disprove the link between the use of underarm cosmetics and cancer in the short-term.

Parabens are disallowed for use in any certified organic skin care product due to concern over their long term effects.

Further reading:

www.badscience.net/2003/06/is-there-a-link-between-breast-cancer-and-antiperspirant/

chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/most-controversial/2011/3/17/are-parabens-natural.html

www.truthinskincare.com/2008/03/parabens-part-1-introduction.html

personalcaretruth.com/2010/11/parabens-in-perspective-an-introduction/

Phenoxyethanol

Used by the majority of 'natural' and 'organic' skin care brands.

Phenoxyethanol is thought to be a skin irritant and may have long term usage concerns.

From 2012 it is disallowed as a preservative in organic certified cosmetics in Europe under COSMOS. It is already disallowed by the USDA.

Further reading:

personalcaretruth.com/2010/06/a-closer-look-at-phenoxyethanol/

chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/todays-chemical/2011/2/28/phenoxyethanol.html

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is a common paraben replacement but a harsh skin irritant even in very low doses.

It works by slowly breaking down into formaldehyde in the product, which provides the preservative effect.

Formaldehyde is a skin irritant and should be avoided by anyone with sensitive or problem skin. In high doses (which you won't get from a skin care product) it is considered a carcinogen.

It is not allowed for use in organic products certified by the Soil Association.

Further reading:

www.truthinskincare.com/2008/01/ingredient-watch-sodium.html 

personalcaretruth.com/2011/05/ask-the-experts-sodium-hydroxymethylglycinate/ 

For more information about Formaldehyde:

personalcaretruth.com/2011/04/april-is-national-formaldehyde-month/

www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/04/14/brazilian-blowout-formaldehyde_n_849197.html

Japanese Honeysuckle – the secret Paraben

That’s why Pai does not use Japanese Honeysuckle in any of its products.

Honeysuckle Extract :: The New Paraben Debate

I have chosen not use Japanese Honeysuckle Extract as a preservative method because I cannot get full disclosure of ingredients, it does not have a proven track record and it does not have a history of testing for proven safety.

Which is Safer – Phenoxyethanol or Water?

phenoxyethanol is well over 10 times safer than water! Water intoxication can, and has, lead to death

Emulsifier - polysorbate

Question: Polysorbate 20 vs. polysorbate 80

The short answer is that we use polysorbate 20 to emulsify small amounts of lighter oils and polysorbate 80 to emulsify slighter larger amounts of heavier oils.

Emulsions and the HLB System


Polysorbates 20 and 80 used in the formulation of protein biotherapeutics: structure and degradation pathways.


Evaluation Report of Food Additives Polysorbates (Polysorbates 20, 60, 65 and 80)


Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 20 - Polysorbate 20 is commonly used to emulsify oils and water at a 1:1 ratio. It is a nonionic surfactant that is water-soluble and used as a dispersing agent. It is gentle and nonirritating. Normally, you need a solubilizer, such as Polysorbate 20, to mix your essential or fragrance oils into body sprays without separating. Combine equal amounts of your fragrance or essential oil and the Polysorbate 20 until you achieve a clear solution, then, add this mixture to your water or alcohol.

Ingredient Watch List: Polysorbate 20—It May Be Contaminated with Carcinogenic 1,4-Dioxane

In its original form, polysorbate is a harmless sorbitol, which is a sugar alcohol. For its use in personal care products, however, it’s treated with ethylene oxide—thus, the name “polysorbate 20,” because it’s treated with 20 parts of ethylene oxide.
The result is an ingredient used as an emulsifier in cosmetic creams (to help mix oil and water), lotions, cream deodorant, baby oil, sun lotion, etc.
The problem with any ingredient that is treated with ethylene oxide (or “ethoxylated”) is that it can then become contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, a potentially dangerous by-product. In fact, 1,4-dioxane is a known animal carcinogen that penetrates readily into the skin. This ingredient has also been linked with skin allergies.
Other concerns with polysorbate-20 are that it resulted in developmental and reproductive toxicity in animal studies, but high doses were administered before these results were observed. Moderate doses are also linked with skin irritation.

Polysorbate 20

A potential alternative to Polysorbate is to use an alternative liquid emulsifier such as CCC Surfactant. I know where to get it in Australia but not elsewhere. Olivemulse is also another alternative. Polysorbate is a low mole surfactant (they are usually wetting agents) and acts as an emulsifier of oil in water emulsions.