Natural Preservatives

Preservatives commonly found in natural skin care products

Ethyl Alcohol

Ehtyl alcohol or ethanol - usually referenced on cosmetic ingredient lists as 'alcohol' or 'alcohol denat*' - works as a preservative when present in concentrations of 10-30%.

When used in these high proportions it can dry the skin and strip away natural oils. It is unsuitable for people with sensitive skin or Rosacea sufferers.

Alcohol is sometimes used in addition to other synthetic preservatives as it is a good fragrance fixative (helps to prevent aromas degrading over time).

Natural skin care companies sometimes claim their alcohol is different because it is derived from natural plant sources (e.g. grain or sugar).

Natural alcohol performs in the same as any other form of ethyl alcohol and is no kinder on the skin. *denat. is an abbreviation of the term 'denatured' which means something has been added to the ethyl alcohol to make it undrinkable.

Common additives include methanol, isopropyl alcohol and acetone.

Ethyl alcohols are not to be confused with fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol.

These have the opposite skin moisturising effect and are used as emulsifiers in cosmetic creams.

Further reading:

truthinaging.com/ingredient-spotlight/alcohol-in-cosmetics-is-it-safe

blog.paiskincare.com/2010/02/do-you-avoid-alcohol-in-your-skin-care.html 

personalcaretruth.com/2010/12/alcohol-free/ 

Benzyl Alcohol

Considered a skin and eye irritant and has been linked to Contact Dermatitis and Urticaria. It is thought to be safe in concentrations of 1% or less.

If you have sensitive skin, we would suggest patch testing (applying the product containing it to a small patch of skin, such as your inner elbow) to ensure you can tolerate it.

Further reading:

colinsbeautypages.co.uk/benzyl-alcohol/ 

chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/todays-chemical/2009/7/22/benzyl-alcohol.html 

Japanese Honeysuckle (listed as Lonicera Japonica)

This is a synthetic preservative that is often described as a "natural paraben" due to the active ingredient: Para Hydroxybenzoic Acid.

In terms of skin sensitivity, we have not seen any data (positive or negative) to suggest it is an irritant. If it works like other parabens, then it is likely to be non-irritating to most people.

Despite the innocuous name, this is a synthetic compound about which there is a great deal of controversy.

Further reading:

personalcaretruth.com/2010/07/honeysuckle-extract-the-new-paraben-debate/

www.personalcaremagazine.com/Story.aspx?Story=488 

chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/most-controversial/2010/5/8/the-final-word-on-japanese-honeysuckle-extract.html

Parabens – Butyl, Ethyl, Propyl, Isopropyl, Methyl, Benzyl

The debate rages on about these preservatives. Recent studies have raised concerns over the gradual build-up of these chemicals in the body and linked them to hormone disruption and cancer. 

However, these studies are not universally accepted, and there is a mainstream scientific consensus that on the whole parabens are safe and non-irritating.

This is to massively simplify a complex scientific question, and indeed there are several different parabens with their own individual benefits and issues.

There are no studies that we know of that demonstrate or disprove the paraben-cancer link over the long term (i.e. over 15 years).

Indeed it is almost impossible (or at least very costly) to do such a study to find out the long term effects of a particular cosmetic ingredient.

If parabens did increase the chances of developing cancers from sustained use of cosmetics over a lifetime, it would take a very long time to prove or disprove the link - literally a lifetime!

There are however studies that are considered to specifically disprove the link between the use of underarm cosmetics and cancer in the short-term.

Parabens are disallowed for use in any certified organic skin care product due to concern over their long term effects.

Further reading:

www.badscience.net/2003/06/is-there-a-link-between-breast-cancer-and-antiperspirant/

chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/most-controversial/2011/3/17/are-parabens-natural.html

www.truthinskincare.com/2008/03/parabens-part-1-introduction.html

personalcaretruth.com/2010/11/parabens-in-perspective-an-introduction/

Phenoxyethanol

Used by the majority of 'natural' and 'organic' skin care brands.

Phenoxyethanol is thought to be a skin irritant and may have long term usage concerns.

From 2012 it is disallowed as a preservative in organic certified cosmetics in Europe under COSMOS. It is already disallowed by the USDA.

Further reading:

personalcaretruth.com/2010/06/a-closer-look-at-phenoxyethanol/

chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/todays-chemical/2011/2/28/phenoxyethanol.html

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is a common paraben replacement but a harsh skin irritant even in very low doses.

It works by slowly breaking down into formaldehyde in the product, which provides the preservative effect.

Formaldehyde is a skin irritant and should be avoided by anyone with sensitive or problem skin. In high doses (which you won't get from a skin care product) it is considered a carcinogen.

It is not allowed for use in organic products certified by the Soil Association.

Further reading:

www.truthinskincare.com/2008/01/ingredient-watch-sodium.html 

personalcaretruth.com/2011/05/ask-the-experts-sodium-hydroxymethylglycinate/ 

For more information about Formaldehyde:

personalcaretruth.com/2011/04/april-is-national-formaldehyde-month/

www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/04/14/brazilian-blowout-formaldehyde_n_849197.html

Japanese Honeysuckle – the secret Paraben

That’s why Pai does not use Japanese Honeysuckle in any of its products.

Honeysuckle Extract :: The New Paraben Debate

I have chosen not use Japanese Honeysuckle Extract as a preservative method because I cannot get full disclosure of ingredients, it does not have a proven track record and it does not have a history of testing for proven safety.

Which is Safer – Phenoxyethanol or Water?

phenoxyethanol is well over 10 times safer than water! Water intoxication can, and has, lead to death