Emulsifier - polysorbate

Question: Polysorbate 20 vs. polysorbate 80

The short answer is that we use polysorbate 20 to emulsify small amounts of lighter oils and polysorbate 80 to emulsify slighter larger amounts of heavier oils.

Emulsions and the HLB System


Polysorbates 20 and 80 used in the formulation of protein biotherapeutics: structure and degradation pathways.


Evaluation Report of Food Additives Polysorbates (Polysorbates 20, 60, 65 and 80)


Polysorbate 20

Polysorbate 20 - Polysorbate 20 is commonly used to emulsify oils and water at a 1:1 ratio. It is a nonionic surfactant that is water-soluble and used as a dispersing agent. It is gentle and nonirritating. Normally, you need a solubilizer, such as Polysorbate 20, to mix your essential or fragrance oils into body sprays without separating. Combine equal amounts of your fragrance or essential oil and the Polysorbate 20 until you achieve a clear solution, then, add this mixture to your water or alcohol.

Ingredient Watch List: Polysorbate 20—It May Be Contaminated with Carcinogenic 1,4-Dioxane

In its original form, polysorbate is a harmless sorbitol, which is a sugar alcohol. For its use in personal care products, however, it’s treated with ethylene oxide—thus, the name “polysorbate 20,” because it’s treated with 20 parts of ethylene oxide.
The result is an ingredient used as an emulsifier in cosmetic creams (to help mix oil and water), lotions, cream deodorant, baby oil, sun lotion, etc.
The problem with any ingredient that is treated with ethylene oxide (or “ethoxylated”) is that it can then become contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, a potentially dangerous by-product. In fact, 1,4-dioxane is a known animal carcinogen that penetrates readily into the skin. This ingredient has also been linked with skin allergies.
Other concerns with polysorbate-20 are that it resulted in developmental and reproductive toxicity in animal studies, but high doses were administered before these results were observed. Moderate doses are also linked with skin irritation.

Polysorbate 20

A potential alternative to Polysorbate is to use an alternative liquid emulsifier such as CCC Surfactant. I know where to get it in Australia but not elsewhere. Olivemulse is also another alternative. Polysorbate is a low mole surfactant (they are usually wetting agents) and acts as an emulsifier of oil in water emulsions.