Petrolatum

The Truth About Petrolatum

Petrolatum clogs the pores:  FALSE.
Nope, not the case. In fact, petrolatum has been affirmed to be non-comedogenic and to not cause allergic reactions (American Academy of Dermatology Invitational on Comedogenicity, 1989).
The greasy, oily feeling of petrolatum leads consumers to believe that petrolatum makes them break out, yet what actually can actually cause break outs is what is used in conjunction with petrolatum. Because petrolatum traps moisture and water-based ingredients under the skin, it can essentially “trap” non-comedogenic ingredients used together with petrolatum under there, causing stronger reactions (Allergy, 2004). Be sure to avoid ingredients like lanolin, coconut oil, squalene, mineral oil, and isopropyl myristate when using petrolatum (Cosmetic Dermatology, 2002).

Benzyl Benzoate - No

Benzyl Benzoate

What is it:
Benzyl benzoate is a synthetic chemical used as a fragrance ingredient, artificial flavor, preservative, and solvent.  It is also considered an over the counter drug and can be used as a scabies or lice treatment.  It is an ester of benzyl alcohol and benzoic acid. 

What are it's risks:
Benzyl benzoate has been found to posess weakly estrogenic properties and have weak stimulating action upon the growth of breast cancer cells in One Study. However, This Study found benzyl benzoate not to display this activity at the concentration tested.
Listed as a suspected allergen by the EU Cosmetics Directive. (Source)
From Drugs.Com, the side effects of medical-strength benzyl benzoate are:
Blister formation, crusting, itching, oozing, reddening, or scaling of skin
difficulty in urinating (dribbling)
jerking movements
sudden loss of consciousness
burning or itching of skin
         These side effects are usually only seen at high doses and concentrations, however, damaged skin or    impaired immune function may make certain individuals more suseptible to reactions.
Brands that use benzyl benzoate include: Jason, The Body Shop, Origins, Weleda, Dermalogica & Zia. 

Steph's Opinion:
I would classify the estrogen-mimicking properties of benzyl benzoate as potential, but not confirmed.  As a person who seeks to avoid xenoestrogens (chemicals that mimic estrogen in the body) I, as a precautionary measure, avoid benzyl benzoate as well.


Benzyl benzoate is a component of cinnamon essential oil

Benzyl Alcohol

Benzyl Alcohol (aka Phenylcarbinol)

What is it?
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol used as a preservative, as the active ingredient in head lice treatment, and as a solvent.  It is most often created by combining benzyl chloride (a suspected carcinogen that has been used as a war gas) with sodium hydroxide (lye).  Sometimes it is created by reacting Phenylmagnesium Bromide (C6H5MgBr) with Formaldehyde.
Benzyl alcohol also does naturally occur in green and other teas, and some essential oils including ylang ylang and jasmine.  

Is it a risk?
Benzyl Alcohol can act as a skin sensitizer in some people, and, according to a 1998 study can "can instigate immune system response that can include itching, burning, scaling, hives, and blistering of skin" at certain concentrations.It is a common skin contact allergen. (Source)High concentrations can induce asthma and bronchitis in some individuals. (Source)Benzyl alcohol was formerly used in neonatal care as a preservative in intravenous drips, however, infants started getting benzyl alcohol poisoning (with numerous fatalities), and it has now been discontinued in this use. (Source) Can react with titanium dioxide to form aldehydes, including formaldehyde. (Source)When high concentrations of benzyl alcohol were injected in to cows uteruses, it shortened their estrus cycle. (Source) However, it is unknown if or how benzyl alcohol reacts with the human reproductive system.  

Steph's Opinion:
Should you avoid products containing ylang ylang or jasmine essential oils?  Benzyl alcohol is a component of these essential oils, but it is a minor constituent of these essential oils.  Toxic reactions and allergies to benzyl alcohol usually occur when the isolated chemical is used in a higher concentration as a preservative (1-5% of the formulation.) A product containing one of these essential oils may contain .5% of the essential oil, 1% of which may be benzyl alcohol, so the total concentration of benzyl alcohol would be .005%. If you were a person that has a history of being allergic to benzyl alcohol, then you may want to avoid these two essential oils just to be safe.  However, if not, this is not a large enough concentration to be concerned with for the general population. Jasmine and Ylang Ylang have a history of not causing sensitization, irritation, or toxicity when used properly.   

I purchased Saline Nasal Spray because it was recommended by a doctor a few months ago when I had a sinus infection. I liked the way it moisturized, since I live in the desert, so I recently picked up a bottle of store brand spray. I keep smelling formaldehyde; Now I know why. It contains Phenylcarbinol & Benzalkonium Chloride "as preservatives." I entered Phenylcarbinol into the Skin Deep Database & your database, and Benzyl Alcohol comes up each time. I'm so pleased to learn I've been sticking this up my nose! (sarcasm) Is there a safer alternative to achieve the same results as the nasal spray? I've heard a little about a Netti Pot. There are several choices as the drug store, but I don't know what to look for in the packets. Will I need to buy distilled water? Should this stuff be avoided all together?

I am a medicinal chemist with 25 years of experience in pharmaceutical chemistry. Medicinal chemists work with these drugs every single day. You won't find better experts anywhere. It is true that benzyl alcohol, just like any other chemical, is not innocuous, but just like evrything else, it's how much you use that matters. The Worls Health Organization (WHO) has set safe limits for intravenous benzyl alcohol at 5mg/kg. That a quarter of one gram for a 120-pound human. That is a lot of benzyl alcohol, and it is by intravenous injection. So you can see that the small amount in your cosmetic product is not likely to harm you.

Ive found that nasal sprays containing benzyl Alcohol cause me to experience burning in my nostrils and down my throat, and shortly after i use them oftentimes a headache and flushing. Ones without B.A. do not cause this.

La Roche-Posay Anthelios Dry-touch Spray SPF 45

200ml $32.5  

ANTHELIOS DRY-TOUCH SPRAY SPF 45 
FAST ABSORBING, ULTRA LIGHT FINISH.
FRAGANCE-FREE. PARABEN-FREE.
WATER-RESISTANT.
Broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection.  

Ingredients 
Active Ingredients: Octisalate 5%, Avobenzone 4%, Octocrylene 3.5%, Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S) 3%, Titanium Dioxide 2.6%, Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 1.5%, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX) 1%. 

Other Ingredients: Aqua, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diamine/Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Triethanolamine, Acrylates Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Pentasodium Ethylenediamine Tetramethylene Phosphonate

The Body Shop POMEGRANATE FIRMING DAY LOTION SPF15

POMEGRANATE FIRMING DAY LOTION SPF15

50ml $20
FULL INGREDIENTS
Aqua (Solvent/Diluent), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Sunscreen), Isododecane (Solvent), Hydrogenated Polydecene (Skin Conditioning Agent), Octyl Salicylate (Sunscreen), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Sunscreen), Glycerin (Humectant), Arachidyl Alcohol (Emulsion Stabiliser), Glyceryl Stearate (Emulsifier), Caprylyl Glycol (Skin Conditioning Agent), Behenyl Alcohol (Emollient), Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethylcarbamoylpropyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Opacifying Agent), Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil (Emollient), Arachidyl Glucoside (Surfactant/Emulsifying Agent), Caffeine (Skin Conditioning Agent), Cetyl Alcohol (Emulsifier), PEG-100 Stearate (Surfactant), Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer (Binder), Parfum (Fragrance), Punica Granatum Seed Oil (Skin Conditioning Agent - Emollient), Butylene Glycol (Humectant), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Modifier), Dimethicone (Skin Conditioning Agent), Polyisobutene (Binder), Punica Granatum Extract (Natural Additive), Disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent), Sorbic Acid (Preservative), Adenosine (Skin-Conditioning Agent), Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifier), Sorbitan Isostearate (Emulsifier), Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract (Natural Additive), Hydroxycitronellal (Fragrance Ingredient), Citronellol (Fragrance Ingredient), Limonene (Fragrance Ingredient), Geraniol (Fragrance Ingredient), Linalool (Fragrance Ingredient), Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone (Fragrance Ingredient), Ursolic Acid (Fragrance Ingredient).

THE BODY SHOP POMEGRANATE SPF 15 octinoxate, octisalate, avobenzone lotion

Active Ingredients:
Avobenzone (3.0%)
Octinoxate(7.5%)
Octisalate (4.0%) 

Sunscreen
Uses  Helps prevent sunburn
Warnings For External Use only
Do not use  on damaged or broken skin
When using this product   Keep out of eyes. Rinse with water to remove. 

Badger SPF30 Unscented Sunscreen Cream

ORGANIC SUNSCREEN BASE WITH ZINC OXIDE

Active Sunscreen Ingredient:
Non-Nano, Uncoated Zinc Oxide 18.75%

Inactive Sunscreen Ingredients:
*Helianthus Annus (Organic Sunflower) Oil, *Cera Alba (Organic Beeswax), Tocopherol (Sunflower Vitamin E), and CO2 Extract of *Hippophae Rhamnoides (Organic Seabuckthorn).

* = Certified Organic
100% Certified Natural by NPA
98% Certified Organic by NSF

UVA and UVB

Understanding UVA and UVB

UVA 

Most of us are exposed to large amounts of UVA throughout our lifetime. UVA rays account for up to 95 percent of the UV radiation reaching the Earth's surface. Although they are less intense than UVB, UVA rays are 30 to 50 times more prevalent. They are present with relatively equal intensity during all daylight hours throughout the year, and can penetrate clouds and glass. 

UVA, which penetrates the skin more deeply than UVB, has long been known to play a major part in skin aging and wrinkling (photoaging), but until recently scientists believed it did not cause significant damage in areas of the epidermis (outermost skin layer) where most skin cancers occur. Studies over the past two decades, however, show that UVA damages skin cells called keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, where most skin cancers occur. (Basal and squamous cells are types of keratinocytes.) UVA contributes to and may even initiate the development of skin cancers.

UVB 

UVB, the chief cause of skin reddening and sunburn, tends to damage the skin's more superficial epidermal layers. It plays a key role in the development of skin cancer and a contributory role in tanning and photoaging. Its intensity varies by season, location, and time of day. The most significant amount of UVB hits the U.S. between 10 AM and 4 PM from April to October. However, UVB rays can burn and damage your skin year-round, especially at high altitudes and on reflective surfaces such as snow or ice, which bounce back up to 80 percent of the rays so that they hit the skin twice. UVB rays do not significantly penetrate glass.  

Sun Protection Factors (SPF) and UV radiation 

Since the advent of modern sunscreens, a sunscreen's efficacy has been measured by its sun protection factor, or SPF. SPF is not an amount of protection per se. Rather, it indicates how long it will take for UVB rays to redden skin when using a sunscreen, compared to how long skin would take to redden without the product. For instance, someone using a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 will take 15 times longer to redden than without the sunscreen. An SPF 15 sunscreen screens 93 percent of the sun's UVB rays; SPF 30 protects against 97 percent; and SPF 50, 98 percent. The Skin Cancer Foundation maintains that SPFs of 15 or higher are necessary for adequate protection. 

FDA-Approved Sunscreens
Active Ingredient/UV Filter Name	Range Covered
	UVA1: 340-400 nm
	UVA2: 320-340 nm
	UVB: 290-320 nm
Chemical Absorbers:
Aminobenzoic acid (PABA)	UVB
Avobenzone	UVA1
Cinoxate	UVB
Dioxybenzone	UVB, UVA2
Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX)	UVA2
Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimiazole Sulfonic Acid)	UVB
Homosalate	UVB
Meradimate (Menthyl Anthranilate)	UVA2
Octocrylene	UVB
Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate)	UVB
Octisalate ( Octyl Salicylate)	UVB
Oxybenzone	UVB, UVA2
Padimate O	UVB
Sulisobenzone	UVB, UVA2
Trolamine Salicylate	UVB
Physical Filters:
Titanium Dioxide	UVB, UVA2
Zinc Oxide	UVB,UVA2, UVA1

Physical:  zinc oxide,  titanium dioxide,  

Chemical:  avobenzone (Parsol, Eusolex, Escalol),  bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone),  benzophenone-4 (Sulisobenzone),  ecamsule (Mexoryl SX),  phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole),  homosalate,  octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate),  octyl salicylate (octisalate),  octocrylene 

Hybrid:  bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M) 

UVB blockers:  phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole),  homosalate,  octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate),  octyl salicylate (octisalate),  benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone),  benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone) 

UVA blockers:  avobenzone (Parsol, Eusolex, Escalol),  ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), 

UVA+UVB blockers:  zinc oxide,  titanium dioxide,  bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M), bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S),  octocrylene